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Some climbing roses were bred or hybridized to do just that, so the climbing gene would be in them. Taking cuttings would likely still give you a climbing rose. Some rosebushes can be pruned back to keep them more as shrub roses, such as Altissimo or some of the David Austin English rosebushes. In grafting the upper part of the rosebush is what is sold and desired by the buyer. The lower part or root stock is a hardier root stock so that the upper part performs better. So the graft and above is the rose you likely want. Below the graft is the hardy root stock that the particular nursery used for its hardy root stock.

Is there any way to tie those wayward canes to the split rail fence and in a way that would be aesthetic to you? Just thought I would present that option before we got the pruning shears out. You can read more about training roses on fences here:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/roses-on-fences.htm

During the first two years, pruning of cecile brunner canes should be done sparingly and only for the purpose of training canes along your fence. The best time to prune is after the spring bloom. Pinpoint which canes are growing undesirably and prune them 18 inches above the base of the plant or at the height where they blend in with the desired shape.

Hi Emma. The White Iceberg climber is about as good as they come but I do not know that any climbing rosebush will give you that nice full arching beauty in one year that you seek. Iceberg does grow very well though. So does a light pink climber named Awakening that is truly a beauty to behold. Awakening is related to the rosebush named New Dawn which is the fastest growing climber rosebush that I know of. All of this being said, Iceberg is usually a very vigorous rosebush and I am sure will be quite stunning even if not totally grown to the desired degree.

My Grandmother had two climbing rosebushes with Lily of the Valley growing at their feet for years. The two seemed to get along just fine. The area on one side of her home got about the same amount of sun as you state (5 to 6 hours) too. Since the lily of the valley plants are well established, they should do okay even with the increased sun time. The key to more sun time and lily of the valley doing okay is the soils moisture. Be sure to keep any eye on the soils moisture and they should do just fine. You will likely need to remove and replant some of the lilies for the initial planting of the rosebushes, perhaps replanting some at the outer edges of the roses planting areas.

Blaze can be that way some seasons. It can be a temperature thing. If the weather was cool and nice and then turned very hot, the bush will drop her lower foliage. If her access to sunshine changed due to a tree or branch removal or a tree planting, this too will effect the foliage and bloom production.Feed and water her well. Use an organic or organic based rose food at least once per growing season. I also highly recommend giving the rosebush 1 cup of kelp meal twice per season, they love kelp meal!

It surely sounds like some sort of beetle problem on the climbing rosebush. If the leaves just have some half circle shapes cut out of them, it could just be cutter bees. I leave the cutter bees alone as they soon stop once their nests are built. Giving the rosebushes a treatment of Bayer Tree & Shrub granules once a year, early spring, will usually cut way down any any insect issues.