vinegar and Dawn. Now, I am worried I have killed the plants. I can still see the aphids moving and there is sticky substance on the outside of the container. I fear for the worst and have them outside on a sunny day in March for Southern Ontario. Will they die? Or thrive till May 24 - our general day for putting plants into the ground?
If just one of those things were to have happened, I would give it a better chance. With damage compounded on top of an infestation, I would be concerned that the plant may not recover. Add bright sunlight to the stress, and it may be on its way out.
You will want to remove any dead material, first. Trim back any branches that are completely dead and brittle. Leave any with some bend, or life, to them.
Treat the plant with a light spray of neem oil. This will be enough to get rid of aphids, usually. If that does not control them, then there are many other organic options that need to be used in moderation, still.
These articles will help:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/organic/what-are-organic-pesticides.htm
Put this in a sunny spot indoors. Water only when the soil is dry just out of your finger's reach, within the soil. This will keep from over-watering, which will help in the plant's recovery.
Here is an article that will help you to care for your Oleander while it is indoors, recovering, and during winter: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/oleander/overwintering-oleander-indoors.htm
and healthy. How do I get them to bloom?
Here's an article that should answer your question:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/oleander/no-flowers-on-oleander.htm
I downloaded the article by Susan Patterson: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/oleander/pruning-oleander-shrubs.htm my email is gkkearny@gmail.com my phone number is 520-363-9713 I have 30+ year old DWARF Oleanders that are fully mature. I cut two of them way back and they are now ugly and I may take them out. We also had several years when the Oleander Pathogens attacked so I've been lopping out dead branches. So far so good. Now they appear to be healthy but I want to try to get them to shape into a privacy hedge. I'm out in rural Kearny, Arizona so I suspect I will have to do the work myself. I cut above a leaf node, and they get thicker. However, some are still quite scraggly. Is there someone I can send photos to who can "look over my shoulder" so I don't do more damage than good? But my oleanders are in need of "shaping up" soon - Thanks for any suggestions you can provide and I really appreciate having access to your experts while I'm home "sheltering in place" with plenty of time to do this important "shaping up" work on my oleanders. For fun, check out my facebook pages for Kearny at https://www.facebook.com/Kearny-Arizona-Travelin-Hats-110334690577592 https://www.facebook.com/FriendliestTownOnTheAZT
Actually, your local extension service may be able to be of some assistance! This page will help you to find out how to contact the closest one to you:
pots or can I just plant them strait into ceramic pot? The plants are 80-100 cm -- sorry don’t know how to send images -- they’re 3ft high trees.
It would be fine to put them into your ceramic pots, so long as they are not much larger than the plastic pots the plants have been used to. If you want to put them inside the ceramic pot but keep them in the plastic pot, that is fine, too. Make sure to pull them out when watering so the ceramic pot doesn't hold water on the bottom, which could lead to root rot.
Here's an article about transplanting oleanders: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/oleander/transplanting-oleanders.htm
and another about how to avoid transplant shock.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/environmental/learn-how-to-avoid-and-repair-transplant-shock-in-plants.htm
Hi iv just cut down an Oleander and was planning on putting it through a wood chipper for the rest of the garden. Bad idea?
i have tried feeding with miracle grow but since the leaves are starting to brown and look as though they are starting to wilt please your answers are very helpfull thanks
Unfortunately, your photo did not come through. I cannot assess the damage. It could be a number of things, since many problems can cause the symptoms that you describe. The most common will be overfeeding (particularly, too much nitrogen) and overwatering, but can include fungal infections if it has already been shown to be present in the area.
Here is an article that will help you to care for the plant, in the meantime:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/oleander/oleander-growing-tips.htm
These articles will help you to address infections in the soil, should it test positive for them:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/using-fungicides-in-garden.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/organic/biofungicide-information.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/homemade-fungicide.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/applying-bactericide-to-plants.htm
I purchased an oleander tree and planted it in a large pot and gave it about 2 gallons of water (one gallon the first day, another gallon the second day). The bottom leaves are now drooping but still very green. Did I over water??? It was real perky the first day I got it and three days later, the bottom leaves are drooping. Please help, I want it to live forever :(
Yes, drastically. These are very drought tolerant and will not tolerate wet soils. Only water when the top 4 or 5 inches of soil are completely dry. Make sure that your container has PLENTY of drainage holes to allow any extra water out.
Treat with a fungicide, and make sure to treat the tree as it would be in its native environment. And please, have care with this deadly toxic species.
Here are some articles that will help:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/oleander/growing-oleander-in-containers.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/using-fungicides-in-garden.htm