I have lots of white spots on my hydrangea that are primarily on the stems but also some on the leaves, it doesn’t look like eggs , I would like to know if it’s harmful or can be treated please
Possibly mealy bugs (a cousin of scale) or cottony scale. You can prune off heavily infested twigs and branches, if practical. Biological controls for scale: predatory lady beetles, lacewings, parasitic wasps. If ants are abundant, selectively control them as ants want the honeydew and may protect the scale insects from predators. You can spray horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps. More info: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7408.html
We recently planted a newly purchased hydrangea in a spot where a pussy willow bush succumbed by the leaves suddenly drying up and the buds doing the same. Now, the hydrangea seems to be doing the same and it was planted just 2-3 weeks ago. It is close to a large holly bush/tree. Could the holly bush/tree be suppressing growth? There is a lilac bush close to where the hydrangea is planted, and it seems to be doing fine. We increased watering to be sure it wasn't because of too little moisture that the plant is wilting. Any thoughts on what may be the reason for why this hydrangea seems to be following how the pussy willow bush went? We used Miracle Grow garden soil roughly half and half with the clay-ish soil in our gardens to give it better soil and we sprinkled a root supplement before placing the hydrangea in the spot and covering with soil.
Hydrangeas planted in summer tend to be reactive to environmental conditions. A current spike in temperatures above 85F will promote leaf moisture loss faster than the roots can absorb more soil moisture. Leaf wilting can be promoted also by windy conditions, insufficient soil moisture and inconsistent soil moisture. If this is not a panicle hydrangea, it should be exposed to direct morning sun until 12am or earlier. The soil needs to be kept always moist in the summer. Water as soon as the soil is almost dry at a depth of 4”. Always maintain 3-4” of organic mulch (no rocks). Use enough gallons of water to ensure the soil is moist at a depth of 8” after watering.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/drooping-hydrangea-plants.htm
I have 2 established hydrangeas that are wilting since I had to remove a large oak tree. I cover them with an umbrella during the hottest part of the day. How and when should I transplant them?
It depends. Summer is not a good time to be planting or transplanting hydrangeas as they can become very reactive to harsh environmental conditions afterwards and require daily monitoring. That being said, if they are suffering greatly regardless of the umbrella shade, you may be forced to move them now. If they are holding up well with the temporary shade, wait until temperatures recede and are typically below 85F daily by the fall. Maintain the soil well mulched with 3-4” of organic mulch past the drip line. Keep the soil evenly moist during the summer, not dry but not soggy either. Water as soon as the soil is almost dry at a depth of 4”, using enough gallons such that the soil is moist after watering (check at a depth of 8”). To avoid overwatering and leaf spotting issues, do not water if the soil is already wet.
Leaves look like lace, there are so many holes in them!
There are several possible culprits that could be eating your hydrangea and causing the leaves to look like lace. One common culprit is the hydrangea leaf-tier, a small caterpillar that weaves leaves together with silk and feeds on the foliage. Another possibility is the hydrangea sawfly, which is a type of wasp-like insect that lays eggs on the leaves and the larvae feed on the foliage, creating a lacy appearance. Additionally, slugs and snails are known to feed on hydrangea leaves, leaving behind irregular holes and a lace-like pattern. To determine the exact cause, inspect the plant closely and look for any signs of these pests.
Neem oil is the pest control choice but there are many options that you could use. These articles will give you more information:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/growing-tomatoes-guide.htm#search/q=neem
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/pests/pesticides/neem-oil-uses.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/greenhouses/greenhouse-plant-pests.htm
her is glorious. Both plants were planted 4 years ago and this is the first time with no blooms ! What to do ?
These types of Hydrangeas are known to produce blooms on "old" wood. This means that careful pruning is necessary to ensure that there are still plenty of older stems to work with.
It is possible that one of them has, just slightly, more of the older wood which would allow it to flower.
Here are some articles that will give you some ideas:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/hydrangea-not-blooming.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/shgen/pruning-old-and-new-wood.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea
I bought some fishy emulsion liquid and I am wondering if I can use it on hydrangas that I have in pots, Thanks
Yes but as an extra fertilizer. It contains lots of micro-nutrients.
Receives morning sun and some early afternoon sun, then shade.
Ensure that the dormant flower buds that develop from July-September are not killed by events like the December 22nd attic blast, when temperatures crashed to -8F. Provide winter protection if practical/possible. Make sure your last fertilizer application occurs by/before the 2nd-3rd weeks of July. Do not cut leafless stems until the end of June. Provide 3-4” of organic mulch past the drip line. Avoid nigh nitrogen fertilizers like some formulations of Miracle-Gro.