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Are your hydrangeas rated for zone 4? The buds could be getting zapped by a late freeze if your shrubs bloom on old wood (buds develop on last season's growth). Also, improper pruning can prevent blooms. Most often, people with the bigleaf hydrangea or mophead hydrangea have the most trouble with blooms.

Here are more ideas:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/hydrangea-not-blooming.htm

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/gardening-by-zone/zone-4/choosing-hydrangeas-for-zone-4.htm

Hydrangeas normally need no pruning other than deadheading of spent blooms (this is also not required; up to you). Dead wood of any type of hydrangea can be pruned but allow enough time for last year's stems to leaf out; you first will get new growth from the base and then leaf out will occur, sometimes as late as a month.

Hydrangea macrophylla (aka, Big Leaf Hydrangea) and Hydrangea serrata’s (aka, Mountain Hydrangea) live wood is best pruned after the plant stops opening new blooms; after the plant stops, you have several weeks, maybe up to a month or thereabouts, before the plant develops spring flower buds inside the ends of the stems. After those few weeks to a month, their live wood should not be pruned or you may be cutting off next year’s blooms.

Paniculatas and Smooth Hydrangeas develop flower buds in mid/late spring to early summer and these buds then open at various times in early, mid or late summer depending on the cultivar. Since pruning live wood is an activity that switches any plant into "grow mode", avoid pruning live stems for paniculata hydrangeas before the plant is to go dormant or before early frosts. Instead, prune once the plant is fully dormant. That can be done in late fall, winter or early spring as long as the plant is dormant then. But avoid pruning live stems of paniculatas to the ground as much as possible as that then creates new green stems that tend to arch and flop considerably by the end of growing season. Woody, brown stems flop less. Paniculata cultivars that produce lacy, small(er) blooms like Pinky Winky, Brussels Lace, Chantilly Lace, etc. flop less than paniculata cultivars that produce large, dense, heavy blooms like Limelight, Vanilla Strawberry, Phantom, etc.

It looks like too much sun, and too much water! Most Hydrangeas will require some shade. Be sure to allow the soil to dry out down to about 3 or 4 inches between waterings. This can help prevent issues with stagnation.

For a refresher on the general care requirements for these shrubs, please refer to this collection of articles:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea

As long as you can get roots on each portion, I don't see why this couldn't be done successfully! This should be done during dormancy, if you are in an area where it goes dormant. If it does not, then between December and February will be appropriate.

Here is an article that will help you to move it successfully:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/transplanting-hydrangea-bushes.htm

I will let one of the admins chime in regarding the login problem. Regarding when to prune, you should have elaborated more on what type of hydrangea you have. In Carbondale's Zone 6a, Smooth Hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens) and Panicle Hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) are the most bloom reliable in addition to being winter hardy to Zone 3. In general, hydrangeas do not have to be pruned but these two are best pruned after the plants are dormant as pruning then will not trigger new growth as a result of pruning now. If you prune now and it is close to the average date of first frost (the average falls on the 2nd-3rd weeks of October in Carbondale), the new growth triggered by pruning will get zapped by early frosts. Another disadvantage of pruning too much/frequently is that you end up producing a lot of new stems that tend to flop by the end of the season; green stems are typically weaker than woodier looking stems. Alas, some people are probably cutting off down their Smooth Hydrangeas now to produce even more blooms than normal. Feel free to prune when dormant in a late part of fall, during winter or in early spring. The remaining types of hydrangeas, such as French Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Mountain Hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata), Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala), etc., all of these typically produce spring 2023 flower buds inside the ends of the stems/branches a few weeks/month after they stop opening new blooms in spring 2022. Thus pruning these types of hydrangeas now in October would result in no or few blooms in spring 2023. Deadheading of the spent blooms (different from pruning) can be done at any time of the year or just let the blooms fall down on their own (they remain attached for many more months if left alone). Additional thoughts… In areas with a lot of snowfall, you can deadhead the spent blooms early regularly (in the fall) to minimize the damage caused by the weight of snow on the stems. This weight can sometimes break branches/stems. Deadheading in the fall is also practical if the plant suffers from re-occurring leaf fungal infections: plant debris (foliage and spent blooms) should then be discarded in the trash when the plant is dormant (not in a compost pile) as the leaves/blooms will contain fungal spores.

Possibly mealy bugs (a cousin of scale) or cottony scale. You can prune off heavily infested twigs and branches, if practical. Biological controls for scale: predatory lady beetles, lacewings, parasitic wasps. If ants are abundant, selectively control them as ants want the honeydew and may protect the scale insects from predators. You can spray horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps. More info: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7408.html