Never see this type In a store. A bit watery for guac.but delicious on a sandwich or salad. Can you name that tune ?
It may be a Bacon or Fuerte variety, which are smooth skinned.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/gardening-by-zone/zone-9-10-11/zone-9-avocados.htm
Avocados that come from California have pebbly skin. Florida growers use a different cultivar that has smooth skin. In total, there are 15 cultivars. Here is a detailed rundown on Florida varieties: https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/FloridaAvocadoVarieties.pdf. If you are curious, there is a California Avocado Commission that has an online rundown of California varieties.
I have successfully grown an avocado tree from seed. However it has yet to produce avocados. What can I do?
An avocado tree grown from seed (non-grafted) can take 7 to 10 years to bear fruit, if at all. You can help by planting more trees, i.e., grafted seedlings.
Avocado trees have functional male and female organs in each flower. However, the flower may open as a male first, then the next day open as a female, and vice versa.
This article tells more: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/avocado/avocado-tree-with-no-fruit.htm
Our large avocado plant (indoor house plant) has begun to fail. The leaves are green but brittle and falling off. We have removed it from its pot, cut back the roots and removed more than half the branches and repotted it (in the same pot) with fresh, previously unused soil. We suspect root rot, but the leaves are not turning yellow - they stay green but are wilting and/or becoming brittle. There is new growth that appears healthy but the mature leaves are affected.
This appears to be a fungal infection. This is usually caused by overwatering or the soil remaining too wet for too long. It also appears to have a severe lack of light. These are very light hungry trees. Indoors, they will require about 200 watts of horticultural lighting per ground pattern square foot of tree. This is the minimum to keep the tree healthy and productive.
Fixing the light quality, intensity, and duration will have to take priority before you could expect any recovery from this tree. Once you get the light situated, then you can begin to treat the tree. Fungicides containing potassium phosphonate should help. See more below.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/avocado/indoor-avocado-plant-care.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/avocado/treating-avocados-with-root-rot.htm
I have an 8 ft potted avocado tree. It was repotted and pruned last spring. Flourished. Now it's too big for inside although I managed. New growth, which always happens in inside winter housing, will be spindly and long. I'm wondering if I can drastically prune it again now in December before that growth appears. Will that harm the tree? It is doing it's leaf loss thing now. All the greenery is mostly out on the ends of limbs. Sure would make it easier to care for until spring comes and it goes outside with promise of new roomier home for next winter. Thank you, Camilla can't seem to upload photo
You can prune, but you will have to do this continually until spring. This may hurt the tree. What would be better will be to get a horticultural lamp of about 200 watts per square foot of tree canopy. This will keep the growth much shorter. Instead of getting tall, it will remain very compact and bushy. You can prune once to shape it before applying the light for the winter, but after this, it will remain compact.
A wild thick branch grew out of my avocado tree. What should I do about this?
Avocado trees are usually grafted onto a rootstock and sometimes a wayward branch will grow from the rootstock. You should be able to see where the graft is and if the branch is coming out below the graft.
If so, just cut it off at the base.
Tree is about 4/5 years old, but had more fruit in the years before (like 25 compared with 10 now). I know, still young, but I want to do the best I can. Not sure about the type of avocado, green, rather smooth and large pear-shaped fruit, light green inside, very creamy. I live in Ecuador, and the tree was bought here, so the climate will not be the problem. Thank you!
The first consideration is good drainage of water away from the base of the tree, if not planted in soil that drains well. Avocado trees are highly susceptible to "crown rot" if they stay too wet at the base. If too wet they can develop root rot and that would begin to limit growth and fruit production. Your volcanic soil should drain well and be rich in trace minerals.
Provide good soil fertility with plenty of compost mulch on the soil surface throughout the root zone (under the entire foliar canopy and a little further, but not up against the trunk). Fertilize with a slow release complete organic fertilizer or well aged/composted manure in spring and fall.
This article has some good tips on growing avocado, the soil fertility and water management will help with flower and fruit production.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/avocado/avocado-tree-growing.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/avocado/treating-avocados-with-root-rot.htm
There are wood eating termites under the bark of my trees.
It is listed as hazardous to human health, and residue can be detected within, and on fruits even after thorough washing. This will not be a safe option for your trees.
Unfortunately, this pest needs to be handled by a licensed professional. Handling this situation improperly will lead to compounding problems.
It seems that there are only 4 numbers in your zipcode, and it is missing a number. I will be unable to find the closest extension service to you. This link will help you to find the closest to you: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/extension-search