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There can be different reasons for a trunk to split, from disease, mechanical injury and sun scald.
These links will help you.
http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/barksplitting.pdf
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/cracking-tree-trunks.htm

This is, most likely, a fertilization issue. Go ahead and apply dolomitic lime to the soil, as to control the pH, just in case this is the issue. A pH swing can appear as a deficiency.

Here is an article for more information: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/cherry/when-to-fertilize-cherry-trees.htm

Trees in pots are affected by the temperature more than those in the ground, but your Prunus should still be able to survive because most are hardy down to gardening zone 5 or lower, while you are probably in zone 7 or 8. Providing winter protection around the pot can help, as described in the below articles. To avoid heat stress, don't use a black colored pot.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/environmental/protecting-plants-winter.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/wrapping-plants-in-burlap.htm

Xanthomonas bacterial spot of cherry and Blumeriella leaf spot of cherry can both cause leaf loss, as described here:

https://ask.extension.org/questions/207426
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/cherry-shot-hole-flowering-cherries
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/fruit/integrated-pest-management-for-home-stone-fruit-growers/cherry-leaf-spot/

These diseases would have caused spots or holes in the leaves to form before they fell off. Overwatering or other environmental stresses could also cause leaf drop.

The good news is that since your tree is producing leaves and flowers again, it will probably return to health. Some cherry varieties normally do bloom twice a year, but if yours hasn't done that before, it may be some sort of stress reaction.

It is difficult to grow cherries in the climate of Phoenix, AZ, but some people have had luck with sour cherries, Hollyleaf Cherry, and Cherry of the Rio Grande (not a true cherry but produces a cherry-like fruit). Also look for low chill varieties (varieties that don't need as many cold hours in winter as the typical cherry variety; see the article below). It is recommended to plant the tree in an area that gets partial shade to protect the tree from the extremes of heat. Also, check the pH preference of your chosen variety and amend the soil accordingly. I think the best time to plant would be in fall, so the tree can become better established before the summer heat.

http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/foundation.html

I am, also, likely to agree and say it is most likely due to over-watering. Some fungal infections can take years to progress. If they don't get treated, they will remain in the soil for a very long time. The plants should only be watered when they are completely dry down to about 2 inches deep in the soil.

You can correct the problem in the soil by adding wettable sulfur and dolomitic lime to all infected areas. This will help make the soil usable again.