What type apricots tree, when to plant, best productivity for San Bernardino, calif Age to productivity?
There are several cultivars that will perform wonderfully in your area. These include: "Early Gold", "Blenheim", "Royal", "Chinese", "Tilton", "Floragold" (which is a dwarf), and "Newcastle". Try any of these, as they are more suited for a hot, dry, or desert-like climate.
The tree blossoms v well in spring. However it does not bear fruit.
Although these are self-fertile, it is best to have more than one tree, as cross pollination will ensure fruit production. Usually this is the case. Many people who only have one tree have this same issue. Here is an article that will help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/apricots/apricot-tree-not-fruiting.htm
Hi, I've just purchased 2 weeping apricot trees to replace 2 pear trees that were getting too big near the house. I tried to dig holes for them, but there are so many roots I can't dig a hole properly. The new trees are 1.8 metres tall, can I grow them in pots or should I put them in a completely different area of the garden?
It is possible to cultivate the new trees in containers, if you can accommodate them with large enough pots for trees that size. It's usually better to plant in the ground for long term growth.
If the root mass that you are trying to dig through is from the pear trees that you removed (and not from a living tree) you could consider hiring a local tree service with a "stump grinder" machine to grind a hole out for you.
Otherwise, the path of least resistance and lowest cost may be to choose another area of the garden.
Should weed control be sprayed around the base of an apricot tree, what are the orange growths protruding from the trunk and how should this mature tree be pruned
Avoid the weed killer near the tree. Some chemical herbicides can enter the tree's absorbing roots or directly through the bark and harm the tree. It appears to be a small enough area that you could easily and effective remove the grass by hand weeding. Or preferably use a 2 or 3 inch layer of organic mulch.
The growths on the tree trunk appear to be fungal fruiting bodies (conks from a bracket fungus - basidiocarp) indicating an internal wood rot fungus infection. I don't know the exact identity of the disease, but a local arborist or university extension pathologist may be able to help you identify and recommend treatment if available.
Pruning lessons cannot be achieved in an email, but in general I would say just to thin and lightly shape the foliar canopy. This article may help you get started:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/apricots/pruning-apricot-trees.htm
The tree is about 12 years old and the rest is in full bloom, about 10 percent is dead
It is important to remove dead branches as they are an invitation to pests and diseases. But it is also important to do it at the right time of year and do it properly or you'll injure the tree. If you've never pruned a tree before, think of hiring a professional arborist who has to right tools to do the job correctly. This article discusses apricot pruning: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/apricots/pruning-apricot-trees.htm
Identifying the "branch collar" is critical to successful healing of the pruning wound. (Do not paint the wound.) Look at some online videos on tree pruning to learn to identify the branch collar and how to correctly remove limbs.
Tree is 3 years old with a initial planting date of May 2016. It has not been pruned other than the pruning performed at the nursery during purchase. The reason for this is our soil is rather hard and poor and I wanted as much early growth as possible so a good root structure would develop. Size when planted was only about 18 inches. Tree is now approaching 10 feet and will need to be pruned. As the tree grew, it sprouted some branches at the bottom. During its second summer, I realized the branches coming from the bottom grew different shaped leaves. Those branches, which appear as separate trunks do indeed come off of the main trunk right at the soil level. The tree produced a few small apricots last summer. Other than a cherry tree, it is the only fruit tree in our yard. Temps. where we are located range from about 6 winter weeks with overnights below freezing and 6 - 8 weeks with summer days @ 100+. Questions: Does this happen often with fruit trees? Should I remove the morphed branches/trunks at this point? Thanks in advance for any help with this.
Forgot to add to my post - I do not know the variety of apricot. (& don't know why the photos changed their orientation during upload). Tim
Hi. I am planting 50 apricot trees that I'm growing from seeds -- Armenikos (Brought them from Armenia) I am new in this field. Question: Do I need rootstock for these apricots? If yes what kind? Please give me detailed information and explanation about these rootstocks, Best regards, Thank you.
I found this article that discusses rootstock options. It seems that apricot seedlings that are not grafted, have a higher rate of pest and disease, specifically root knot nematode and crown gall disease. http://fruitandnuteducation.ucdavis.edu/fruitnutproduction/Apricot/Apricot_scions__rootstock/
You do not need another rootstock unless you are trying to breed for specific disease resistances. They can grow on their natural rootstock just fine.