The plants look super healthy very green. Two years ago we relocated them. I have been fertilizing with perennial and vine fertilizer. Numbers on the box are 6.9.7
Two or three years will be about the recovery period for a transplant.
How many years were they blooming before transplant? Also, what kind of hydrangea, and what is your climate zone or location? These can all play large roles in why your hydrangea may be reluctant to flower.
This article will help in the meantime: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/hydrangea-not-blooming.htm
I'm afraid I may have cut them back at the wrong time-
This article will help you in correctly pruning Hydrangea macrophylla: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/prune-hydrangea-bushes-hydrangea-pruning-instructions.htm
I purchased white hydrangeas. While they are blooming,however, they look pink. Is there anything I can do to have them bloom white?
You cannot change the color of white hydrangeas to pink or blue, although some begin with white blooms, then age to a pink or tan color.
My hydrangas have several buds on them, but they don’t open. What would be wrong???
When they are not opening fully, then this is usually a sign that there is a lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil. You can, either, amend the soil with a topdress of compost, or add something higher in phosphorus and potassium, such as potassium phosphate.
This article help you with the care of hydrangeas in the meantime: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/growing-hydrangeas-hydrangea-care-guide.htm
Best way to dry them so they won’t die My email is sharon1s@aol.com HELP
The best ways to dry water saturated potting soil is of course protect the pot from additional rain or irrigation. Move it under cover or put up an umbrella.
If there is a saucer under the pot, dump out or spoon out excess water that drains through.
Exposure to sunlight and wind, even a fan, will help in the drying of the soil.
Monitor soil moisture content with your fingers or a trowel or better yet a soil moisture meter.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/testing-moisture-in-plants.htm
I was reading about hydrangea care at your link https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/hydrangea-propagation.htm The article says "Next, strip all but the top most set of leaves from the cutting. The cutting should have only two leaves left. Cut the two remaining leaves in half crosswise (not lengthwise)." So are you saying cut the leaves completely in half crosswise, thereby removing the outer half of these two leaves? Maybe I'm reading it incorrectly. Thanks, Bonita
Yes, that's the advice. Since there are no roots, even in a high humidity environment, it is difficult to maintain the leaves' moisture. If they wilt they become prone to fungal infection. But the cutting needs energy from photosynthesis so some leaf surface is necessary. It is a balancing act.
I purchased Hydrangea "Avant Garde" some years ago from QVC (ultimately from Thompson & Morgan I believe) and right from the start it drooped as the heads were too heavy for the stems. I keep reading how strong the stems are and they never droop even when the heads are full of rain! Can you tell me please if I am doing anything wrong in caring for it, but as I say, my hydrangea's stems have always been curved. Thank you Regards Denise Downing
This is a large mophead variety and can become heavy and hang; wind and rain can cause this to occur; not necessarily a week plant.
Water hydrangeas at the bottom of the shrub rather than from overhead. Overhead watering can weigh down the flowers, causing them to flop over.
Deadhead fading blooms, clipping them off just under the flower heads. Removing the faded blooms reduces the top-heaviness of the shrub. You can also cut off some of the heaviest flowers while that are in bloom and arrange them in a vase to enjoy them indoors.
Leave 18 to 24 inches of stems behind when you prune your hydrangea. Do this rather than cutting branches back to the ground. The thick, older stems provide a sturdy base for new growth, reducing the likelihood that the stems will flop over when in bloom.