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Welcome to gardening where erratic spring weather is becoming the norm. What a challenge! Let your plants recover on their own. If the tips turn brown, you can trim them off at some point. If blossom buds had opened, expect reduced bloom in spring-flowering shrubs and trees. Leaf buds will be replaced by new buds. Delay fertilizing and pulling off winter mulch until your frost-free date even though you see spring growth.

Fungus is everywhere and this type of fungus is not a problem for your plants. It often indicates overwatering or inadequate air circulation, however.

Yellowing leaves could indicate a watering issue. Newly planted perennials may need more water.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/daylily/growing-daylilies.htm

Are they planted too deep? Daylily plants should be set in the ground so that their crowns (the point at which the foliage and roots join) are about 1 inch under ground. Bulbs should be planted 6 to 8 inches deep.
Are they getting enough sun? Most varieties bloom best in full sun. More sun equals more blooms with daylilies.
Are you fertilizing them? Depending on your soil, a light fertilizer (and plenty of water) will help improve performance.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/daylily/growing-daylilies.htm

The best time to transplant daylilies is in the early spring or early fall, although they will tolerate transplanting at any time of year. Moderate soil temperature helps them become established more quickly. If they are transplanted in early spring they will still bloom that year. Daylilies transplanted in summer may not bloom again until the next year. If transplanted in the fall, they will need at least six weeks before frost to become established.

You should deadhead the lilies daily. When the plant is done flowering the stalks can be removed.

Allow the foliage to die down naturally.