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  • Answered by
    BushDoctor on
    October 18, 2017
    Certified Expert
    A.

    According to my research, the fruit is edible. The best method of eating them seems to be pickling, or making them candied. You can use the rind in the same way you would use orange peel.

    Here is an article for more information: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/trifoliate-orange-tree/trifoliate-dragon-orange-tree.htm

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  • Answered by
    BushDoctor on
    October 25, 2017
    Certified Expert
    A.

    This is a mildew issue usually caused by high humidity, or over-watering. I have a remedy that will take care of both the soil, and the above ground portion of the plant. On the spray... if you can't get every ingredient then that is ok, as this is meant to be over-bearing and broad spectrum. It is safe to use on all plants at any time.

    The recipe is as follows: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/houseplants/flowering-maple/growing-flowering-maple.htm

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  • Answered by
    MichiganDot on
    January 1, 2018
    A.

    The answer depends on what your goals are for this mulch. Is it for weed suppression, retaining soil moisture, keeping roots cool, soil nutrition, improving soil tilth or preventing erosion? 2-4 inches of compost will nourish the soil but disappears in a year. Wood mulch breaks down more slowly so it doesn't need to be replenished annually. It won't rapidly improve soil nutrition but as it decays, it will replenish what is being used. Chopped leaves are often touted as soil gold; they break down fairly rapidly, nourishing the soil, and they are light and airy which allows air to penetrate the soil. Unchopped leaves tend to mat down, so along with inorganic mulches they actually slow water and air penetration. Why not use compost or chopped leaves as a top-dressing and cover with coarse wood mulch? Fine mulches, such as cocoa hulls, tend to repel water and slow down air penetration. Whether you use shredded wood or nuggets is a personal preference matter. The longest lasting wood mulch is bark; the downside is that a slower decay rate means less soil nourishment annually. The richest soils are found in river deltas and forest floors. Try to recreate the forest floor in your garden.

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  • Answered by
    Downtoearthdigs on
    January 11, 2018
    A.

    Webs on plants are often made by spider mites, so check your plants for these tiny arachnids. You can learn about them here:
    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/pests/insects/spider-mite-treatment.htm
    http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/C107/m107bpmites.html
    http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7405.html

    I think the more important issue for your plants is the light level, though. Unfortunately, it's very difficult to give plants as much light indoors as they get outdoors, so most plants will lose some leaves and/or fruit when they're brought indoors. A sunny window combined with a grow light or two is usually the best option. If you don't have a sunny window, you could use a couple of grow lights and use some mylar sheets or other reflective material to increase the light that reaches the plants, as described here:
    http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/kobayashik/supplemental.html

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  • Answered by
    BushDoctor on
    January 13, 2018
    Certified Expert
    A.

    In this case, it seems that you had a grafted tree. This means that there was a branch of a fruiting age tree fused onto the stalk of a seedling from a different, but faster rooting citrus. This is usually younger, and Not even close to fruiting age, but with the graft on the rootstock from an older tree, it can fruit in the first year or so.

    Unfortunately, what it sounds like you have done is clipped the graft top. Sometimes, growth below the graft line will grow faster then the grafted top. These usually don't produce edible fruit, and are too young anyways. These will need to be clipped. They will usually have more thorns than a fruiting age branch.

    That being said... If you have accidentally cut the grafted branch, you will be left with an unknown citrus variety that may or may not produce fruit in 4 to 6 years.

    This article will give you a little more insight:https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/lemons/suckers-on-lemon-trees.htm

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  • Answered by
    BushDoctor on
    February 3, 2018
    Certified Expert
    A.

    This is the natural process indoors. The lack of humidity and direct, unfiltered light causes it to go into a semi dormant state. You can supplement light with about 200 watts of horticultural lighting, and either put a humidifier next to it, or spray a few times daily with a fine mist. This will help out.

    Here is an article for more information: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/citrus/growing-citrus-trees-indoors.htm

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