I use a soaker hose in my vegetable garden and last year used a timer with it. It watered the plants for about 15 minutes everyday especially in the hot 100 degree weather. Why would it be better to only water twice a week for 1" of water?
There are many variables to how often to water. It depends on the plant, the weather, the amount of sunshine, and the soil. Ideally, the gardener pokes a finger in the soil to assess moisture level. The idea behind deep watering is to give the plant a good soak and to have moisture at a depth that encourages plant roots to go deep seeking it. Of course, the soil dries out from the top down. Deep roots are an insurance policy against excessively hot or windy weather as well as plant growth spurts. Deep roots are cooler than ones close to the surface and this can affect plant health. Vegetable flowers and fruits suffer before leaves wilt. Sandy soil may need watering twice daily in 100 F temperatures since it doesn't hold water well. If you find that your garden production is satisfactory with your current strategy, then stick with it.
Is their a good watering can style for this purpose?
Mist them with an ironing-type spray bottle. Or use a spray wand with a head like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Haws-Small-Extra-Spray-Plastic/dp/B004R4STUI/ref=pd_day0_hl_201_6/147-4530596-9991260?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004R4STUI&pd_rd_r=fde78846-4791-11e9-b40f-e948c6584ac1&pd_rd_w=9s6TC&pd_rd_wg=t7dl8&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=YEN47ZKBBV1VVWGA79SG&psc=1&refRID=YEN47ZKBBV1VVWGA79SG
What's the accuracy of the advice to avoid using fluoridated water for seed-starting?
Fortunately, this is an easy test to do yourself! Some plants have a sensitivity to it, and some prefer to have it to germinate.
The best way to test fluoridated vs. non is to do comparisons side by side. Many seedlings will prefer non-fluoridated water, but many mature plants will need it, at least, occasionally to prevent chlorine and fluorine deficiencies.
Plant watered with purified water-- health began to decline. At first, it was watered with tap water.
Depending on the plant, it may be experiencing a chlorine deficiency. Many plants benefit from tap water, as many nutrient supplements are not full supplementation. They may lack certain elements like chlorine or fluorine, which plants use both in VERY SMALL quantities.
While it is true that certain plants have a sensitivity to it, there are also many plants that need it.
What is the plant in question? Maybe we can work through the reasons that this could have happened.
is there any merit to the argument that fluoridated town water should be avoided for seed-starting and seedling transplant purposes, and that no-chemical roof or stream water is preferable?
I have been growing for 30 years and haven't had trouble with city tap water. Most cities have switched from chlorine to chloramine. Check with your water department. I think it is more of an issue with houseplants that are repotted every few years and where chlorine levels can build. Chlorine is highly volatile and "off gasses". Leaving tap water uncovered overnight reduces the chlorine content significantly. Chloramine does not which makes it a safer chemical to use from a safety standpoint. If you are concerned, using a filter pitcher will remove chlorine.
the garden we are working on is half a block away. We have to haul water there somehow. We did plant drought tolerant pieces, but still need to water frequently at least until they are established and then more later on. Any good tips on how to do this? Your help is appreciated.
Perhaps a rain barrel at the garden site would be of help.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/watering/collecting-rainwater.htm
Garden wagons can make hauling buckets of water easier; heavy duty wagons can be found at farm stores.
Recycle a child's wagon for this purpose.
The 2 plants in clay pots are dry. I keep it around a 1-2 on the flowering taper tier. The long planter got very wet three weeks ago and still has not dried out When the sun is out I leave them directly in the sun but if it’s pouring I bring them in my house near a semi light window Please help me what am I doing wrong or what should I get Thank you Sharon Axelrod Sharon1a@aol.com
The best thing to do would be to drill out holes in the bottom of the planter to allow for water to leave it faster. Good drainage is the only way here. I would also recommend using succulent soil, as it will dry out much faster. This soil will be a little too heavy for their requirements, although they will do just fine, as long as you can keep the moisture away.