After a hard winter, the top of my smaragds are droopy. Will they fix themselves, or how do I correct this?
This article will help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/environmental/tips-for-saving-cold-damaged-plants.htm
We recently cut down a row of old lilac bushes that were becoming unsightly. We left about a foot stump on the lilac bushes and put Tordon on the stumps hoping they will die and we can pull them out. We want to replace the lilacs with a row of Thuja trees so we still have the privacy and windbreak. How long do we need to wait to remove the stumps and plant the trees?
You will need to spray the stump liberally with a herbicide.
This will move throughout the system and kill the roots.
You will need to then dig up the roots.
Watering the ground around the tree will help loosen the root system.
Work in a circle to pry the root ball from the ground.
After removing the root ball and roots, fill the hole with top soil.
The amount of time it will take to kill the tree will depend on the concentration of the herbicide and the size of the tree.
It can take any where from 1 to 6 weeks according to my research.
Which evergreen hedges are best to reduce traffic pollution in London
Generally, for this application you will want a tight, compact tree that spreads or covers a lot of space. Thujas, compact cedars, and spruces can help here. You will just want something that can be pruned if you are looking for hedgelike structure. This link will give you more information: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/shgen/evergreen-shrubs-for-privacy.htm
This spring I noticed that several of my thuja green giant arborvitaes have dead branches and leaves. I am not sure why this is happening, they have been in the ground three years and never had this issue.
This could be due to winter damage.
I'm looking for a plant that can extend the hight if our wooden fence and I found THUJA PLICATA. Is this a good choice for a small garden and how far away from the wooden fence should I plant them? Max height they will be trimmed to is 7-8 feet. Many thanks
Thuja plicata, western red cedar (the species which is native to the US Pacific Northwest and naturalized in the UK) is a very large growing tree and not appropriate for your small garden.
But there is a smaller hybrid Thuja/arborvitae called "Green Giant" which is popular as hedge plant. This variety may still grow too big for your small garden.
Plant it at least 3 feet from the fence for a 5 year plan, preferably 6 feet or more on a 10 - 20 + year plan, to allow for foliar spread and maintenance access.
Depending on where you are located and availability (not sure what "l4zl0w" means) you may also consider, boxwood, privet, Japanese holly or other; or extend your fence height with a trellis and grow a vine like ivy to achieve the screening you need.
A friend of mine sent me this picture of a tree that she saw in Northern Michagan. I've looked everywhere and can't find out what kind of a tree it is. Can you help us identify it? Thank you. Sallie
It is, either, one of many Thuja trees, or possibly a Platycladus , but I'm leaning more towards Thuja.
Here is our collection of articles on the Genus Thuja: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/category/ornamental/trees/arborvitae
Hey, was messaging you on Instagram and you told me to send pics here. Here are my Thujas (have 89 of em) and was wondering if you could tell me if they look healthy. They're getting great sunlight and water from rain. And I was told winter makes them turn colors so just getting a little nervous. Some leaves here and there look dried out so also wondering if that's normal. Thanks so much!
We talked, earlier in the year, about how overwatering will take a toll on the trees. This, likely, has to do with the issue that you were having at that time.
Overwatering will cause root rot, paired with the time of planting you can expect a lot of this damage. This is something that needs to be corrected, immediately, though. It will result in the loss of the trees, as it spreads quickly from one to the next.
You will need some heavier fungicides, and to test the soil's pH, and nutrient levels.
A pH meter, and an EC (electrical conductivity) meter will help you here. If you are unfamiliar with how to use them, I would recommend having someone from your local extension come out and test your soil for you.
Likely, they will recommend a fungicide, first.
Here are some articles that will help you to fight what you are seeing here: