I would like to grow a pear tree from seed taken from the pear itself. Q-1. Does the seed need to be dried before stratification? Q-2. How long should I keep the seed in the fridge? Q-3. My plan was to use a well moistened mix of 50/50 peat moss and perlite and keep the seeds in a zip-lock baggie in my fridge. Does that sound OK?
While growing pear trees from seed is possible, you’ll get faster crop results buying a young tree. However, if you would like to try growing from seed, then your method should work. Here is more info on stratification: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/seeds/seed-stratification.htm
I recently purchased a house with 2 pear trees. At the beginning of the summer, the trees had small pears about twice the size of a pea. They did not grow any bigger and mature into full size pears. My question is why didn't they mature?
Thats a Phosphorus deficiency, you need to buy a Phosphoric fertilizer or just purchase the mixture of fertilizer NPK 3:2:3
I am trying to root a piece from a pear tree. I put it in water and it is growing, but not rooting. I have had it in water for about three weeks. I have it in one of the bedrooms and it gets a lot of sun.
The following link is to an article about fruit tree propagation: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/grafting-trees-what-is-tree-grafting.htm
Unfortunately the probabilty of stems from a tree rooting is not verry good. Usually woody stock is taken at the correct time for that particular plant, prepared, dipped in the correct rooting hormone and placed in appropriate media, under mist, with bottom heat.
I have a 30'-tall Kieffer pear, which produces well and is in a semi-shady area. The lushest limb growth is in the lower half, but a bushy area at the top of the tree blocks some sunlight from an important part of my vegetable garden in the late day. Would I (or more precisely, the tree) have a problem in 'topping' the pear tree, maybe at 20-25' up?
Experts agree, "Tree topping hurts trees". Please read this article: http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-458/430-458.html
If your vegetables are getting 6-8 hours of sun, some shade late in the day shouldn't hurt. Actually, they might appreciate the shade on hot days.
I have pear trees that have fire blight. I had them professionally pruned last fall. As we approach spring, I would like to spray the tree to control/reduce the fire blight. There are expensive services that will provide this, or I can attempt to do this myself. However, I am unable to locate the chemicals I would need to use and any guidance on how to apply it to the trees. I am also concerned with all the plants below and surrounding the tree. How might they be impacted when spraying the trees? Any advice will be greatly apprecatied. Thanks.
You should be able to find copper fungicide spray at a local plant nursery or a farm supply store. The impact on nearby plants should be minimal as this is a fungicide and should only affect fungus.
I have planted an espalier pear tree along a rock path. An 8" high concrete wall with a railing above is 12" from center of root ball. It is on the north side of the tree. I am concerned the tree's roots will get too hot from the wall. I boxed the tree base in so the rocks can't cover the root mass. What should I cover the root mass with - bark mulch, white rocks or some leafy ground cover?
Basically, any type of mulch is fine, depending on your preferences. You may want to go with something natural which allows for good air flow and would break down over time, adding nutrients to the soil and roots. This article will help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/whats-the-best-mulch-for-my-garden.htm As for ground covers, ivy and minor vinca are both popular choices for under tree ground covers. Here are some other suggestions: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/shade/ground-covers-for-shade.htm
I was wondering if it was dead.
This article should help you figure out if your tree is dead: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/environmental/how-to-tell-if-a-plant-is-dead-and-how-to-recover-an-almost-dead-plant.htm