I live in southern Tasmania and I have a garden bed that gets very little sun during the winter but quite a bit during the summer. My question is: how much direct sun do peach and nectarine trees need both during their growing cycle and while dormant?
During the growing cycle, they will need 6-8 hours of sun a day. During the dormant season, they really don't need any sun at all. The sun is used by the leaves and if they don't have leaves, they can't use the sun.
I have one of each peach and nectarine trees. They are early fruiters--Nov/Dec. I would love some advice as to when they should be pruned, etc.
The best time to prune is in late winter so that you can cut away wood injured by low temperatures. cut back the tall-growing limbs and 1/3 of all new growth. Cut out all dead, broken, diseased branches. Remove old wood that previously produced fruit (it will not produce again) as well as crossing or rubbing branches. Aim for a funnel-like shape with fruiting branches about 1 foot apart over the top of the tree. Once blooming has begun, it may also help to pinch off some of the buds to induce more productive fruit.
How can I tell if a dwarf fruit tree requires a separate pollinator nearby? I am looking at a dwarf nectarine, Prunus nucipersica, at Home Depot here in Albuquerque, NM and the label attached to the tree does not say nor does the nursery 'expert' at the store know.
No, you do not need another tree nearby for pollination to occur in peaches. The blossoms will pollinate each other on one tree.
Last spring we planted a Sweet Surprise nectarine tree. It made a few pieces of fruit but they did fall off after several weeks. This year the tree is loaded with tiny fuzzy little fruit from top to bottom. The fruit last year had fuzz on them also. I know nectarines do not have fuzz! What has happened? Did the peach genes take over my tree or do nectarines fuzz when they are baby sized fruit?
Peach and nectarines are actually the same fruit, but there is a 1 gene difference that causes nectarine fruit to not have fuzz. There are a few possibilities here. One is that the plant was mislabled when you bought it. Another is that the nectarine was grafted onto peach rootstock and the peach rootstock grew and pushed out the nectarine graft (did the tree have problems early on? This is common if grafted trees have problems early). It is also possible that you have a sport nectarine, meaning a nectarine whose 1 non-fuzzy gene has mutated and the skin is now fuzzy.
Nectarine growing in container, recently treated for peach leaf curl, began to wilt and leaves stopped growing. Soil was found to be full of horseshoe shaped maggots with brown heads
These are grubs. It sounds like the grubs of one of the many kinds of scarab beetles that plague gardeners (japanese beetles being among them). These articles will help:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh037
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/pests/insects/june-bug-beetles.htm
Not for sure but I believe my dog might of chewed off a 10-inch strip of bark. I planted both trees 10 feet apart in middle of March. They are about 5 and half feet tall and both are producing fruit. I have used no chemicals or pesticides. How should I treat these two trees? 10 feet from the peach is cherry, then another 10 feet is Sweet Darl cherry. Thanks for your help. Jo
As long as the trees are not girdled (where the bark is removed around the circumference of the trunk) then the trees will be fine. As an extra precaution, pain the damaged area with a fungicide but nothing else. The fungicide will keep disease out of the wound. Any "wound" paint other than this will actually trap disease in the wound and can make matters worse. This article will help:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/repairing-tree-bark-damage.htm
I have just purchased two dwarf fruit trees, a pear and a nectarine, but the label does not tell me how big the container should be.
The container should be at least 2 inches larger than the root ball on the plants.