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That looks more like a Hibiscus or Rose of Sharon seedlings. Here are some articles that will help:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hibiscus/how-to-care-for-hibiscus-plants.htm

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/rose-of-sharon/rose-of-sharon-bush.htm

Mealy bugs should be visible either in branches or other parts of the plant. The same applies for aphids and scale. Spider mites require checking both sides of leaves and branches using a magnifying glass since they are as small as periods in this sentence.

I usually have bud drops for one of these reasons: cold temperatures in Spring or Fall; very hot temperatures in the Summer; moving from the nursery to the house; lack of water or over-watering (keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season and allow some dryness during winter); not enough direct sunlight (an indoor problem); pests like hibiscus beetles (appears to have a preference for white, yellow and pink blooms), thrips, aphids, gall midge, nematodes, spider mites, whiteflies, mealy bugs; nutrient problems when root bound in the pot. Note that double-flowering hibiscus is more prone to bud-drop than other variety.

Yellowing of leaves can be caused by many scenarios such as nutrient deficiency, iron chlorosis, pests (spider mites), old foliage, too much heat or watering issues (basically, environmental stress), the use of some chemical agents, root problems, etc. Some yellowing is normal throughout the growing season but a large percentage of leaves yellowing would not be normal. If the leaves develop white spots, the plant is getting too much sunlight.

Too much fertilizer, watering issues, pests and less than 6 hours of direct sunlight can reduce bloom production or result in no blooms.

It seems to be getting full sun in there so I wonder if you maybe over-fertilized? Too frequent application may add high levels of nitrogen, which produces nice, green foliage but few or no blooms. Make sure the fertilizer has enough potassium (that is the "K", or last number, in the fertilizer NPK Ratio) and low levels of phosphorus (that is the "P" or last number in the fertilizer NPK Ratio). They do not like to bloom when overnight temperatures are below 60°F, when temps are extremely high or when they have bad drainage (make sure the pot is not full of water at the bottom; if yes, research why).

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, also known as Tropical Hibiscus, needs to be protected from cold temperatures as it can be damaged by frost and freezing temperatures. Typically, you should bring it into a protected garage or inside once overnight temperatures are forecasted to drop below 50°F as the trunk will die and the roots may not survive (you can try providing plenty of organic mulch) in very mild winters.

Hibiscus moscheutos, also known as Hardy Hibiscus, Rose Mallow, Swamp Rose-mallow, Crimsoneyed Rosemallow or Eastern Rosemallow can be pruned all the way down once it goes dormant and the trunk(s) dries out.

Hibiscus Coccineus, also known as scarlet rosemallow, Texas Star, Brilliant Hibiscus or Scarlet Hibiscus can also be pruned all the way down once it goes dormant and the trunk dries out.

Hibiscus syriacus, also known as Althea or Rose of Sharon, can be left alone outside or you can prune it all the way down once dormant.

This can be achieved by solarizing your soil! This article will help:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/projects/how-to-solarize-garden-beds-to-eliminate-garden-pests-in-the-soil.htm