We moved here 3 years ago the garden is steeply terraced on a downhill course. Not a lot of sun. We have made a small pond and lifting paving, growing sedums and creepers to cover the hard concrete. Also have apples in tubs, growing well. Would like a softer garden and possibly wildflowers as we get a lot of birds. Not got a lot of money so have to do most of the work ourselves. Don't know where to start!
Sure! We have several articles that will help you to get started:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/shade/shade-tolerant-flowers-for-containers.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/containers/porch-plants-for-shade.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/shade/plants-for-creating-shade-containers.htm
The container I wish to use is too big for the plants so want to pack it out. I don't have bricks or pebbles or polystyrene but I do have plastic bubbles sachets would that also be OK Please.
I wouldn't use anything soft inside the container. It will likely get moldy. Now experts recommend using a "pot within a pot." Plant your pot in a smaller container of soil, then place that in the desired larger container filled with styrofoam or similar filler.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/containers/using-styrofoam-in-containers.htm
i wanna know when they bloom
If it's a perennial grown from seed, they can take up to three years to bloom.
If you want more specifics, email us again with the name of the plant you are waiting to bloom.
I want to wait to spring clean beds to protect butterflies, etc and need to know if recommended consistent 50 degree temperature is day or night temps? Thank you.
I found an extension reference that said 50 degrees F overnight. That makes sense because the eggs won't hatch while it is still cold, and often nighttime temperatures are still in the 30s and 40s when daytime temperatures are in the 50s.
https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/garden-scoop/2021-02-26-spring-garden-cleanup
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/when-to-start-spring-garden-cleaning.htm
All my Hydrangeas Plants were dying before the frost. Followed directions. Why Why Why
It would be extremely rare to see hydrangeas dying due to frost. While foliage and stems might show damage, the roots should survive, especially if the plant is well watered before temperatures plummet and if the plant is kept well mulched or is winter protected. If you covered them with mulch, the typically need about 2-4" of mulch past the drip line. Any excess mulch can be reused elsewhere in the garden with other plants. Or bag the mulch for later use when you have to replenish mulch that has decomposed or has been blown away. Hydrangeas should be starting to peek through in March under normal conditions (either stems start to leaf out or new stems start to grow). Oakleaf hydrangeas tend to break dormancy first, followed by Big Leaf Hydrangea and then the rest.
Been over a week and some leaves are not unfolding and flowers are not going fully white?
Your tree or shrub is in distress. These articles should help:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/tree-leafing-problems.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/azalea/no-leaves-on-azalea.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/magnolia/magnolia-blooms-not-opening.htm
It will come down to choice on this one! We do have quite a few articles that will help you to get started, though.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/urban/sharing-garden-ideas.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/design/lideas/how-to-start-a-shared-garden.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/vgen
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/vgen/when-to-plant-your-vegetable-garden.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/vgen/vegetable-intercropping.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/grains/cover-crops/cover-crop-rotation.htm