The plant is quite a few years old and in the past has done very well, flowering and looking very healthy. But over the last two or three years has been having this problem. It still flowers quite well though. The ends and edges of some of the leaves go brown too. I have never re-potted it.
It sounds like the plant has rust fungus. This article will help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/disease/learn-about-plant-rust-disease-and-rust-treatment.htm
I have had a camellia bush for about 25 years. It still flowers every year, but the color is not as true as it once was. It's almost faded. I don't have the name of the variety any more. It is solid dark pink in color. I do fertilize every year.
This article may also help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/environmental/fixing-color-faded-flowers.htm
Anonymous, you fertilize, but what analysis and how often. I would suggest a well balanced (10-10-10 for example) fertilizer and use it according to package directions. The following link is to an article on camellia problems: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/camellia/identifying-and-fixing-problems-with-camellias.htm
There is a search window at the beginning and end of the article. If you enter the word camellia, many more links to articles, several of them Q&A, will appear.
Brown speckles on camellia leaves. Blooms look fine.
Hopefully this article will help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/camellia/identifying-and-fixing-problems-with-camellias.htm
I have a maybe 10 year old camellia which never fails to flower. I wish to re-organise my small garden and plant the camellia in another place. Is it possible to do this with such a well established plant? I don't want to risk losing it.
It is possible to relocate your camellia. The best time to sever a plant from the ground is in the fall. However, as long as deciduous plants haven't refoliated, you can still dig. Make sure you dig a rootball 10-12" wide for each inch diameter of the trunk. If your camellia trunk has a 2" diameter, dig 20-24" diameter rootball. Use the same transplanting method as you would any tree or shrub You will need to take care (water) for the camellia for the first year until it becomes established.
Our Camellia plant is in full bloom but some of the leaves are covered in a black dust. Do you know what is causing this and how it can be cured, as we have just bought a new plant and don't want the same disease to effect it.
This is sooty mold, often brought about by insect pests. This article will help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/camellia/sooty-mold-on-camellia.htm
try cornmeal it has triptofan(natural fungacide) also kills the mold
I have inherited a row of 5 camellias, which have become very tall (10/12 ft) and the bottoms are very woody and "leggy. " How far can I cut these back without killing the plants?
The standard rule of thumb is "no more than a third". However, IMO, if a shrub looks really leggy, it's safe to trim further. If your plant is heavily stemmed, you could take the entire mass back 1/3, then take the stems, one at a time, back another 1/3. As one stem starts looking fuller with new growth, cut another until the entire shrub is "short and phat". I've done other plants this was and have had success.
I have two questions. I live in Auckland, New Zealand. . . Problem 1 - Camellia We have a standard red Camellia and large sections of the leaves are turning brown. The plant is not in direct sunlight and there is no sign of disease. Could it be the grass clipping mulch we have been putting around the trunk? The other consideration is that our neighbour may have poisoned it. Problem 2 - Evergreen hardy mature hedge Our neighbour poisoned our hedge and it died away. It is now sprouting new shoots in places. Is it possible to resurrect it? Any tips on how to care for it? I have been feeding it with general plant food.
Grass clippings should be composted before being used as a mulch. They rob nitrogen from the soil, the element camellia's love. Also, place the mulch no closer than 4'' to the trunk, this allows for air flow. Mulch should only be 4'' deep unless it's non-packing leaves like pine needles or oak leaves. You don't want the plant to smother.
Your hedge may be trimmed to encourage shrubby growth. I would not place a lot of stress on it by overfertilization. A light dose is advantageous, but let the plant "get it's wits gathered back up", before trying to push a lot of new growth. Once the hedge is growing, you can take up to 1/3 of the plant.