What's your question? Ask

You can leave the casing where it is. The eggs will survive winter inside the sac. If you are bringing your planter inside you can break off the stem it is on and place it in a protected area outside.
If you bring it inside the warmth will cause them to hatch too early.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/beneficial/praying-mantis-egg-sac-info.htm

Thank you so much for bringing this to our attention. We'll forward the info to our editors right away and will make the appropriate revisions.

Spiders are attracted to plants that attract their meal tickets. For example, nectar and pollen producing plants will bring all sorts of insects to them, and spiders will follow. I always plants lots of annual and perennial nectar plants for pollinators, and spiders are always along for the ride. They also like shrubs where they can easily construct their webs. Or several plants or shrubs together that make ideal webbing structures. I see little webs and their mummies in my viburnum shrub, burning bush, and an orb weaver constructed a web from my deck planter to my backyard door this past summer. I had to avoid hitting it when I came out the door. My deck planter was filled with nectar plants, i.e., periwinkle, pentas, salvia, and million bells. Leaving outside lights on at night will attract insects and therefore spiders.
They also like moisture, mulch, hay, rock piles, and any debris pile that will serve as an overwintering site. I can attest to the mulch because whenever I am planting something in a garden filled with mulch, I see spiders scurry out of my way.

This article's topic is eliminating spiders, but it also indicates where they like to congregate.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/pests/insects/spider-garden-pests.htm

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/beneficial/creating-bug-gardens.htm

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/beneficial/groundcover-for-beneficial-insects.htm

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/what-is-nectar.htm

They will not be as plentiful as the weather gets cool. They can not regulate their temperatures, internally, as we can!

If you can manage to heat the pond, or the surrounding area enough, you may extend the season. It is not likely that they will stay around the whole year, though.

Here are some articles that you will find useful, here:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/beneficial/amphibian-friendly-habitats.htm

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/children/garden-toad-house.htm

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/beneficial/how-to-attract-toads.htm

3 percent peroxide won't harm fungi (Though it can take a toll on the bad ones) as much as it will bacteria. As someone who works closely with soil microbes (and microbes in general) I can tell you that peroxide is very limited on what it can kill off. What it DOES do is kill spores. It will inactivate the means by which bad microbes can reproduce.

Using peroxide sparingly every few weeks or so will not do any harm to the beneficial insects or microbes present in the soil.

Acceptable ranges of use can be anywhere from 1 part peroxide to 10 parts water, and can be as concentrated as 1 part peroxide to 3 parts water without any damage.

Here is an article that will help:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/using-hydrogen-peroxide-in-garden.htm