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If the entire leaf is yellow, there may be a nitrogen deficiency. Also, over-watering displaces oxygen and leads to yellow leaves. If the leaf veins are green, then a different deficiency is present, possibly low iron. If you feeding the plant on a regular schedule as recommended on the fertilizer container then you probably don't have nitrogen deficiency. If you have experienced lots of heavy rain, it could be that the soil isn't draining fast enough. Improving drainage means lifting the roses to dig amendments into the soil. Read this article for further information: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/yellow-rose-leaves.htm

Rose trees are grafter creations with the desired rosebush grafted to the top of a long rose cane bred especially for such use. Many times the upper desired rosebush dies and leaves just the trunk portion alive and it leafs out but will likely never bloom. Or if it is certain that the top rosebush is still alive, check your fertilizer being used. If it is high in nitrogen, it will push the foliage growth and limit the blooms production.

There are several roses native to the US and are available from native plant nurseries. However, trying to find other roses that aren't from breeders is going to be difficult. Hybrids are more disease resistant and have a longer flowering period. They also tend to grow faster so they are ready for market quicker. Search for old-fashioned roses, antique roses, old garden roses and china roses. Here is one site: https://www.antiqueroseemporium.com

I will assume your question is about compatible planting of rose and jasmine.

The rose should not be negatively affected by the jasmine unless the jasmine was planted so close that it overgrew the rose and shaded out the foliage, or competed for water and nutrients. With ample space and good management the two should be able to coexist in the same garden, just not planted too close.

It looks heathy except for the insect damage. Rose slugs have been bad in a lot of places this year. They are spring feeders, the larval stage of the sawfly, and look like tiny green worms on the underside of leaves. Where they have fed looks like gray lace that eventually gives way to a hole. In the south, there may be a second generation a few months after the first. To work, sprays need to be rated for these pests and sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves when the larvae are present. The other common rose pest is Japanese beetles; they are voracious eaters of rose leaves. They can be removed with a small hand vac or flicked into a pail of soapy water. Spraying after the pest has damaged leaves will not correct the problem. Vigilance is the key. Sawfly damage starts at the bottom leaves whereas Japanese beetles start eat leaves and rose buds on the outside of the bush. Links to more information follow.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/rose-slugs.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/japanese-beetles-roses.htm

It could be the use of high nitrogen fertilizers which cause lots of nice foliage but few to no blooms. I recommend using a good well balanced organic or organic based fertilizer. It can also be an insect problem where the buds start to form and tiny little insects bore into the baby buds for nourishment and thus they die and fall off well before forming up fully to bloom. A systemic insecticide is the best way to get to the boring insects. The other issue means to stop the use of or stay away from high nitrogen fertilizers.