in diameter, a gel-like substance starts oozing out. There doesn’t appear to be any gel on the bark. How can I get on top of t his I haven’t paid much attention to what the leaves look like but I think some leaves start dropping very late in summer. I have sprayed w dormant oil in late fall. And then some other type of “fruit tree spray” from Lowe’s in spring at pre budding. This did not help so this year I also sprayed at early bud, full flower and after petal drop. Should I now add a regular spray of insecticidal soap? Any advice is much appreciated. Also and just FYI, I’ve never fertilized this tree.
Unfortunately, there can be many causes for this, but I think your last sentence just about sums it up. This article will help:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/peach/tree-with-no-peaches.htm
My peach tree is fairly young 3-4 yrs old and last year developed the fungus on the leaves, There were a lot of peaches but all had the disease and almost all fell off, whatever was left was not salvageable.I did not treat the tree and this year again after the bloom and the leaves grew the fungus is back. I shall treat it this fall and next spring but is it worth it to spray anything this yr. I have a dog so have to be careful and he picks the fallen fruit.
This is going to be a lifelong issue. You will need to treat every year at the appropriate time, or it will return.
Here is an article that will help:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/peach/peach-leaf-curl.htm
the peaches are still the size of a big olive but there is white jello like stuff showing up on them. What is this disease called and how to cure it?
This is likely from the Oriental Fruit Moth.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/peach/fruit-moth-in-peaches.htm
http://treefruit.wsu.edu/crop-protection/opm/oriental-fruit-moth/
two halves even though the peach is ripe
Unfortunately, your photos did not come through. It sounds a bit like pit split. This is usually environmental and happens most often when they are forced to grow larger than they would in nature.
Here is an article that will help you to learn how to alleviate the issue:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/fegen/stone-fruit-pit-split.htm
What type of chemicals, fertilizers and soils are used to stop such invasion.
There are many methods that you can choose. I will provide several articles that will help including one on a fruit tree spraying schedule:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/fegen/fruit-tree-spraying.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/pests/pesticides/what-are-neonicotinoids.htm
I wanted to plant more this year (quarantine life), and got a peach tree to grow in a container since I heard they can be grown this way. But now I am wondering if this variety needs to be planted in the ground?
There are two varieties! There is a standard and a dwarf, and it will depend on which you have.
The standard can be grown in container, but it will not be easy. This will require annual root and top pruning, and very specific care. It is much easier to plant the standard in ground to avoid extra work, or killing the plants.
The dwarf will grow, in container, very well.
Here is an article for more information on the tree:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/peach/belle-of-georgia-peaches.htm
Hi! Our peach and pear trees have not produced fruit for 7 years now. One newer pear tree had lots of blossoms thus spring but no fruit forming. The neighbors had a huge black walnut tree cut down last year. Could that be the problem?
Actually, now that the tree is cut down, you may start to see fruit and flowers in the coming years.
Walnut toxicity will affect many tree and plants. The chemical is called juglone, and is present to some degree in most nut trees. The Black Walnut is the most notorious for damaging other plants.
Here is an article that will help:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/nut-trees/pecan/pecan-tree-toxicity.htm