Some of the leaves on my 15 foot 10 year old viburnum otorotisurum are sparse ,turning yellow with red.brown spots.They also have red/brown spots on the back of the leaves.It is spreading to nearby viburnums. Is this a fungus? Many leaves have dropped off and are no longer dark green. With what and when should I spray.It has been hot and humid where I live in savannah Georgia. Should I remove as many leaves as I can reach?
This article covers all the major viburnum diseases:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/viburnum/diseases-affecting-viburnums.htm
From your description, it sounds like you have a fungus, either Anthracnose or Cercospora. Here are the articles covering those syndromes:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/disease/anthracnose-disease.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/disease/cercospora-leaf-spot.htm
This year the leaves are very small and sparse. What could it be?
Can you include a photo? It will be very hard to tell without seeing the exact damage. If you can include a photo then I will be more than glad to help you figure out what is going on.
I planted 2 varieties of snowball viburnum in the spring. Chinese snowball & Eastern snowball. When the temperatures hit triple digits their leaves turned brown & fell off. After lots of watering they came back. Now with cooler temperatures and 14 inches of rain they are still losing leaves and struggling to survive! I live in Granbury at Pecan Plantation. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am so sad! Thank you Paula Tumlinson
With what I see and from what you have told me... This looks like an infection likely brought about by overwatering.
It responded to the watering well at first, but this is when you should let it take all of that water in before getting wet again. Since it does not have as many leaves, it can not evaporate water near as quickly.
If the soil remains wet for too long, it will be a perfect breeding ground for infections. Combine this with the cooling off, and you have the perfect conditions for an infection to establish.
Since this plant is somewhat hardy, I think that by spring it will come back just fine. You will need to help it along though.
The way that I recondition infected soil is by using dolomitic lime and wettable sulfur together. This will kill off the infection, and recondition the soil back to a more suitable condition for the shrub, and not the infection.
This article will give you more information on the care of these: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/viburnum/japanese-snowball-care.htm
Hi, I have some viburnum shrubs which the leaves tend to have a white/yellow effect on them around late October. It only happens this time of the year and I am wondering why this is.
This appears to be a fungal issue, or pH issue, or even both! To correct this, I would recommend applying wettable sulfur to the area, and applying dolomitic lime to adjust pH. This can correct your issue, and even if there is no infection, the sulfur will help keep the soil clean, and free of infection in the future. This article will give you more information on the proper care of these:https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/viburnum/viburnum-shrub.htm
I had 11 of them in the front, about 8 years old. They turned brown this winter and ALL died. I did trim them in late fall. Would that have killed them?
Often Viburnum is pruned in late winter while it is dormant. Any growth that formed after fall pruning is unlikely to make it through the winter. Remember that pruning gives the signal to grow - send out new shoots - not desirable just before winter. There are other possible reasons for viburnum problems. One is Viburnum borer. https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/viburnum/controlling-viburnum-borers.htm
The other is verticillium wilt: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/disease/verticillium-wilt-treatment.htm
Some Viburnum species are more susceptible than others. Here is an article that goes over Viburnum diseases and pests. Remember to always clean your pruning tools between plants (some recommend between cuts) to prevent accidental spread. Lysol wipes have shown to be effective. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/viburnum-diseases-insect-pests/
Sometimes, when the winter gets really cold, it will kill it off partially. This will usually come back and is not a reason of concern. Here is an article for more information on their care: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/viburnum/viburnum-shrub.htm
I live in northern IL and have three 6-yr old viburnum that are 5ft tall x 3ft wide encroaching on evergreen trees near them. Was going to relocate them. Can I split them in half or quarters, or need to leave whole? If I need to leave whole, can I take cuttings from them and start new ones?
Arrowwood Viburnum is capable of growing up to 12 x 12' unless you have a dwarf/compact cultivar. When branches touch the ground, they may root. Look at your shrubs closely for one of these rooted branches on the periphery. That would be a simple way of starting a new plant. I have never heard of one surviving division but nothing would surprise me about this vigorous and hardy shrub. You can cut them down to several inches to dig them out and transplant. If you don't dig it out, it will come back! You may be able to propagate by root cuttings but the usual method is by stem cuttings. Here is the "how to". https://sites.psu.edu/2016hort202/viburnum-propagation/
I saw a beautiful Sweet Viburnum in a 15 gallon pot for $200. At Home Depot I can pick up the same plant in a 3 gallon pot for $12.50. I live in Central Florida. How long will it take for the less expensive plant to grow to the size and width of the 15 gallon version?