We have a whole walk-through garden with a variety of bulbs, tubers, shrubs, grasses, rose bushes and evergreen plants that we have to move in January. How can I move them and possibly store them or plant them (if possible) through the winter? We live in north Arkansas. I need some help trying to solve this problem. We have a dirt floor garage (but no door) that we could use for possible storage if you think the plants would make it there if I cover them with mulch.
As long as the ground is still manageable, you should be ok with digging them up, but as far as replanting them, I would place them in containers instead. Storing them in the garage should be fine. With exception to any bulbs or tubers, they may require a bit of water once a month throughout winter. Keep the bulbs/tubers dry, however, and store them in a cardboard box with some newspaper or peat moss in an area that will remain dark, cool, and dry. Once spring returns, you can replant in their new location and care for the same as before.
what size container to move plant
Always pot up to the next size. If you have a 1 gallon pot, go to 2.
When is the best time to move plant from 1 area to another?
This depends greatly on the plant type and your growing zone.
Here is a link to help you determine your growing zone.
If you have the specific plant type we can give you more specific information on care and when to transplant.
I am in zone 5 and want to start seeds in a cold frame that I am going to build and put a heat wire in the bed. I want to use plastic 6-packs for ease of transplanting. What do I need to do to ensure that I get good heat transfer from the heat wires, through the plastic pots, and finally to the seeds? I don't want to fail after building this new planting ability. Thanks, Doug.
Make sure you check the seed packets for information on the temperatures needed for germination. Not every seed needs the same temperature.
Most germination heat mats have a reostat that can be changed to the proper temperature.
Do you have a way to control your heat wires you mention?
Since I'm not clear on the type of 'heat wire' you mention, it is difficult to make a recommendation.
When using a seed heating mat system the pots or germination trays sit direction on the mat.
Make sure you also have ventilation in your cold frame.
I have moved two trees out of necessity for decking . One was in blossom which all blossom have died and leaves appear limp but not dead Second shrub/tree the leaves are shrivelled and dead How to I go about trying to rescue and what can I add to soil to add repair
The most you can do it assure you have planted in the correct soil and growing conditions.
Transplanting during active growth and blooming is not in the trees best interest, but I understand you have to do what you have to do!
Watering a newly transplanted tree is the most crucial step. Daily water for the first 2 weeks. Soil should be moist but never soggy.
Apply 3 to 4 inches of hardwood mulch to help with moisture retention.
Do not try to fertilize into health. This would further stress a tree.
Got a new flowering plant was in a pot outdoors and I moved it to the ground now the leaves and flowers are droopy and drying out the plant calls for full sunlight 6 Plus hours a day and that's where to get don't know what's wrong need help to revive
I always provide shade for newly transplanted plants for 3 days. This gives the roots time to recover from transplant shock. Anything that casts shade, like a cardboard box or leaf bag over a stick or shovel, can be used to create shade. Keep the plant shaded until it looks better. Water when the soil feels dry 1-2 inches down from the surface. Oddly enough, over-watering causes similar wilting to under-watering. Wind and hot weather increase water needs. The rocks in your garden hold heat and heat up the soil. If you are in a hot weather state, consider using wood mulch in place of rocks. Flowers are very draining on plant reserves. Remove the flowers on your stressed plants to make recovery easier. Another consideration is whether weed killer was used in the area this year or last. Some are persistent in the soil; glyphosate is not.
Leaves are all falling off even with watering and treating with Quick Start after planting What's the problem? Have had them before and didn't have this oroblem
It would depend on the plant in question. This sounds like a case of overwatering, though. This is the most common cause of transplant failure.
This article will help you to avoid transplant shock: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/environmental/learn-how-to-avoid-and-repair-transplant-shock-in-plants.htm