I have many plants in pots in my balcony. It is April, so nights are still rather chilly (7-9 deg) so usually I put my plants inside at night. I am not sure if connected but sometimes I leave them outside. Lately I have noticed that some of the leaves were turning yellowish, on the tomato, basil, bell pepper and raspberry. You can see the picture attached. It is consistent in several pots almost everything but the strawberries and the rhubarb. I am not sure what am I doing wrong, I thought it was a nutrient deficiency so I bought and treated with the product in the picture attached, it could be that. It could also be the soil, as all pots have the same soil brand. Lastly I am not sure but water here is very hard I have notice it leaves calcium traces on the floor. What could it be and how can I fix it. Thanks for the help, JG
This actually looks more like sun scald to me. If the plants have been indoors, they should be slowly introduced into sunlight; morning sun and afternoon shade to start, then slowly work up to full sun (at least 6 hours).
Little seedlings will need more sun protection and will need to be hardened off for life outdoors.
Avoid splashing water onto leaves.
These articles will help you.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/environmental/leaf-scald-in-plants.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/propagation/seeds/how-to-harden-off-your-seedlings.htm
I saved seed from outdoor grown tomatoes but half produced tomato seedlings and one other type seedling. What is it and how can this happen?
This is a longer explanation then I have time for so I have this great link that will explain how this happens from saving hybrid seeds!
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/vegetables/SEED.html
Read your article on this but it does not say whether the plant will survive. So, will they still grow and be productive or would it be best to take them out and start over with new ones?
With proper care your plants can overcome some of these issues.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/tomato-leaves-turn-white.htm
I live where volunteer tomatoes pop up in empty lots and flourish with no care and scarce natural watering (San Diego area). Yet my plants invariably end up like some version of this photo; I bought a 12" healthy, disease resistant plant, and 2 months later it looks like this. Scrawny, yellow/grey mottled leaves with small fruit, that will soon die. In the past, I've tried more water, less water, fungicides, fertilizing, and even replacing all of garden with clean topsoil. What is my most likely problem, and solution? Thank you!
It's not possible to determine the disease that your tomatoes are suffering from at this late stage.
Are you practicing crop rotation? You should move tomato plants every 3 years to avoid soil born diseases.
Just removing topsoil will not be sufficient; you will need to sterilize soil.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/vgen/rotating-vegetables.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/projects/how-to-solarize-garden-beds-to-eliminate-garden-pests-in-the-soil.htm
Growing in containers may be a better option for you.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/growing-tomatoes-pots-containers.htm
two years ago my tomatoes got a bad fungus. So, I did the heat treatment to kill the fungus over the next summer. Now my tomatoes aren't producing. I supplemented the soil w/ manure and garden soil and lime. There are blossoms but they don't produce tomatoes. It has rained a lot this last month. Can you help me?
This article will help you access the issue.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/tomato-blossoms-no-tomatoes.htm
My tomatoes leaves are yellowing. It is on a drip system and is watered 2 times a day for 5 minutes but the water runs straight through... any suggestions
If it were just the yellowing, I would have less concern. I also see black and grey in there too. That's no good. There is a fungal infection present.
Do these plants have a chance to dry out between watering? Heat is fine, since they are tolerant of high temperatures, but letting water remain constantly wet will not be. This could be the cause ,especially, since there is a drip pan. This will hold extra water.
I would wait to water until the soil is pretty dry, almost all the way through. This can be measured by weighing the difference between a fully dry pot, and a fully saturated pot. When it gets close to the weight of the fully dry pot, then it would be a good idea to water. They can handle quite a bit of heat and dry.
You will want to, either, use a handful of DOLOMITIC LIME and WETTABLE SULFUR, or a pre-prepared spray fungicide such as at this link: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/using-fungicides-in-garden.htm
I don't have a photo, you must know what end rot looks like.
I would not have any knowledge on this type of medicine for use in the garden, but certainly an interesting question.
These links may help you with this issue.
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/factsheets/Tomato_BlossRt.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/tomato-blossom-rot.htm