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These are indeterminate tomatoes. This means that they have a very short lifespan, and have a determined plant height. The idea with these will be to start them where they will end up, as to avoid transplant shock. They must have a very loose soil amended with some heavier particulate, and plenty of organic matter such as compost. These will also need large amounts of calcium and magnesium. Dolomitic lime will provide both while improving the texture of the soil.

It is likely that these were stunted at the start and never fully recovered. This can be due to transplant or being in a small container for too long before transplant.

Also, as you will see from the article at the end, these are marketed as a colder tomato species. This season has been particularly warm for my area, and if it is the same for your area, then this may be the cause as well.

This article will give you an idea of the different tomatoes for different climates: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/growing-temp-for-tomatoes.htm

The effects with those essential oils is not likely anything negative, though it was likely more expensive.
Use plain Epsom Salts moving forward. The garden department likely sells larger bags for garden use.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/epsom-salt-gardening.htm

It sounds like a leaf blight.
This article will help you.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/early-blight-alternaria-tomato-leaf-spots-yellow-leaves.htm

This can be a bit tricky, as there are a few factors that will affect this. Too much nitrogen, as with many mircalgro soils will prevent tomato flowering, as will too acidic of a soil.

It could also be a temperature or humidity issue. They will drop flowers when it is hot, or the temperature varies too much from day to night. This can prevent flowering all together, as well.

Last, there could be an actual deficiency in phosphorus and potassium. Adding these can help

Here is our collections of articles on tomatoes: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato

This can help the productivity of the fruiting branches. You can increase productivity with any of an array of "bloom boosters". This is just a mix of very large amounts of highly availably potassium and phosphorus. There are many types from many brands, and most are exactly the same thing. For the most bloom control, avoid any of the booster with nitrogen unless this will be your only fertilizer.

I recommend starting out using only at 1/4 strength, and slowly moving up as you see fit, and if they seem to handle it.

Add dolomitic lime to the soil as well. This will provide calcium and magnesium, as well as keep the pH stable. It will save you quite a bit of trouble in the future with tomatoes in container.

And, as always, tomatoes are LIGHT HOGS... Give them as much as possible, but keep them watered in container. An occasional dry out is healthy, but keep an eye on that.

This article helps with watering tips!

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/watering-tomato-plants.htm