Do you need new soil every year in wine barrel containers , or can you enrich the dirt from the year before? I always plant tomatoes in them along with a few flowers and herbs.
There are a few ways to go about this.
I recommend changing the soil out every year, or at least amending the soil with compost, dolomitic lime, and iron sulfate before putting it back in.
You can also plant beans and peas in the off seasons to help replenish some nutrients such as nitrogen.
But the best thing would be to use an all new potting mis amending with organic material.
What is this? It appeared at the base of a tomato plant.
It looks like pokeweed. Look at google images and make your own determination. It has a taproot and develops lateral roots as well. You must remove all of it or the plant will regrow.
What ate my plants off,and took them?
The usual culprit is the tomato hornworm. This is a massive green caterpillar that can destroy a plant in hours. This article will help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/tomato-hornworms-control.htm
Which tomatoes are interminant? Sauch as better boys are rutgers.
Most large tomatoes are indeterminate, plants that are large and need staking. Determinate varieties tend to be smaller and bush-like; cherry tomatoes and romas are 2 examples. These are easily grown in containers. To confuse matters, there are now semi-determinant grape tomatoes that stay small like a determinant but produce over a longer season, like indeterminant.
is there a time when i should pinch the seedlings to make them fuller and stronger?
I would not do this to a young seedling. Keep in mind that usually anything ABOVE the pinch point will die off. This is what allows lateral growth to take over. You will want to do this when it reaches a good number of nodes. Lets say 4 or 5 leaves... This is the number of leaves you want to shoot for. This will allow 4 or 5 main branches instead of the apical branch leader keeping dominance. So wait until they are enough established to pinch the top. But yes, this will encourage a more bushy stature.
I only plant tomatoes and a couple of years ago a type of blight attacked my plants causing leaves to turn yellow with black spots and work up the plants eventually turning leaves to fall. Went to garden center and bought a concentrate to spray but was told to move garden. I moved around corner to side of shed (previous plot in back of shed). It was not far enough away. The garden center told me the blight stays in the ground. I wondered if building a raised garden with all new dirt on top would help. Do not really have another spot to make another garden.
As long as you have a barrier between the ground, and your new soil then it should be much better. You might apply a thin layer of wettable sulfur to the bottom to kill off any disease starting.
I do believe a raised bed will be much better for your situation.
In coastal San Diego with minimum winter temperatures in the mid 40's F this year, I left some grafted tomato plants over-winter. They are now very leggy but are still setting flowers. Should I prune them back now cutting off the new growth at the end of the long, bare stalks? If so, will the old stalks re-sprout or will new stalks grow?
Much of your tomato plant stems are quite woody, and pruning into the woody areas will not result in any new stem growth.
The links below will help you with the most common types of pruning that can be done on your plants.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/should-you-prune-tomato-plants.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/pruning-tomato-plants.htm