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Top Questions About Soil Problems

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Questions About Soil Problems

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  • Answered by
    Downtoearthdigs on
    June 21, 2019
    A.

    Avoid adding manure as fertilizer. Manure is typically high in phosphorous and can quickly lead to a spike in phosphorous levels.
    Add phosphorous-free fertilizer. All fertilizers contain a string of numbers that follow this format: "X-X-X." The first number is nitrogen, the second phosphorous and the third potassium. Phosphorous-free fertilizers will always have a "0" in the second column.
    Mix a spray that contains water with 1 percent foliar zinc and iron, then applying that spray to plants every week if phosphorous levels are excessively high. You may apply it every four weeks if phosphorous levels are slightly high. Soils with 300 parts per million phosphorous will take up to five years to go back to acceptable levels.
    Have your extension service explain your soil test to you.
    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/extension-search
    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/zinc-and-plant-growth.htm

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  • Answered by
    BushDoctor on
    July 19, 2019
    Certified Expert
    A.

    It is always best to use pictures of your own soil, because those cracks help to indicate exactly what the soil consists of. This will determine what amounts of things you will need to add to make the soil usable. Still it is best to avoid clay soils in container.

    First, I'll start off by saying this: It will be much easier to get pre-bagged soil online than it will to build it. Should you still need to amend your heavy clay soil, this article will help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/how-to-improve-clay-soil.htm

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  • Answered by
    Downtoearthdigs on
    July 30, 2019
    A.

    As with all beneficial soil components, too much potassium can be detrimental to plant growth, as it interferes with the uptake of other substances.
    If a soil test indicates a high level of potassium, literally start from the ground up by not adding more to it in the form of a multipurpose fertilizer. Typical fertilizer blends are generally composed of the three most important substances -- nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium -- which are indicated on the packaging by the letters N, P and K. Selecting a blend that is low in potassium, or K, or contains none at all, is a first step in assuring that it doesn't build up to unsuitable levels in the soil.
    If a soil test indicates a high level of potassium, literally start from the ground up by not adding more to it in the form of a multipurpose fertilizer.
    Schedule any fertilizing within several weeks before planting, so that the potassium doesn't have time to accumulate during the off-season. To minimize long-term potassium buildup, consider using aged or composted animal manure as a substitute for commercial fertilizers, as its components break down more slowly to keep up with plant demand. If using manure, apply it at a rate of 40 pounds for every 100 feet, and work it into the soil to a depth of 6 to 9 inches.
    https://extension.umd.edu/sites/extension.umd.edu/files/_images/programs/hgic/Publications/HG42_Soil_Amendments_and_Fertilizers.pdf

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  • Answered by
    BushDoctor on
    August 13, 2019
    Certified Expert
    A.

    Depending on, exactly, how much peat you used, I would be willing to bet that this is the issue. If it dries out thoroughly even once it will be VERY difficult to re-wet.

    You can try a wetting agent, such as a few drops of dish soap, or a few drops of coconut oil mixed in very well.

    This article will offer more insight: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/soil-dries-too-fast.htm

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  • Answered by
    BushDoctor on
    September 10, 2019
    Certified Expert
    A.

    That is Coprinellus sect. micacei. They do not pose a threat. They are harmless and are eating some decaying wood, either left from a tree stump or buried underground. They are very beneficial to the area, and removing them will be difficult, since very very little of that mushrooms resides above the ground. The real body is in the ground and inside of the wood that it is consuming. What you are seeing is simply the reproductive organs if the mushroom.

    If you did manage to rid your yard of it, it would leave your yard open to more dangerous pathogens such as those that destroy lawns and trees.

    Still, should you choose to go that route most fungicides will do the trick. You may want to continue to keep them handy for what takes its place, though.

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  • Answered by
    BushDoctor on
    September 13, 2019
    Certified Expert
    A.

    It is hard to say. If you are using wild soil to germinate , then it is best to pasteurize the soil first at 180F degrees or just a little above for 3 hours prior to planting. It looks like one of the many leaf rotting fungi, and they probably won't bother your seedlings. If it is going after more than leaves, and rotting wood then you may want to start over, as they have a chance at eating your seedlings. It just depends on whether the fungus prefers living or dead matter.

    Here is an article that will help you to pasteurize your soil: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/sterilizing-soil.htm

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