Maybe due to the heat (41 degrees Celcius)?
This appears to be overwatering damage. Compensation for heat should be done with shade. Watering should, only, be done when the top 2 or 3 inches of soil are completely dry.
Soils that remain saturated without a period to dry out will suffocate plant roots. Be sure to allow for a dry period, and move the plants to shade during hotter portions of the day. You may need a fungicide to take care of any infections that can arise from wet soils.
Here is an article that will help:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/using-fungicides-in-garden.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/testing-moisture-in-plants.htm
I had a soil test done by a university that listed the following Phosphorus (P) 55 High, Potassium (K) 55 Medium, Magnesium (Mg) 131 High and there recommendations is to add 2.00 per 1000 of Nitrogen and 1.5 per 1000 Potassium. However, the sulfur is currently 40.7 mg/kg or ppm and adding potassium will in increase the sulfur content correct? How can I lower the sulfur to the recommended mg/kg or ppm of 6.0? and still correct the Phosphorus and Magnesium? The area is my front yard where recently the grass as died, it was sprayed with Eagle EW20 for a fungicide and treated for pest with no results then a broad spectrum fungicide was added 2 weeks later. So I removed the dead grass and want to bring the PH and sulfur under control before a plant new sod. Thank you
It sounds like a sulfur reducing bacteria has taken over your lawn. This is going to be a tedious process to bring it back to a usable state. I would have that same university test for what bacteria is causing the issue. You may need to kill this off before the sulfur can be flushed out of the soil. Likely, after killing the bacteria, you can use citric acid to remove excess mineral content from the soil, as well as flushing with large amounts of water, after.
I have brown tiny confetti which blows all over my garden from July to September - it gets everywhere - do you know which tree or bush it comes from? Thank you
Well, I am all the way in Texas so you may have a tree that does not grow on this side of the pond but last month in the park, a Cottonwood Tree was causing similar trouble. The light white fluffy fibers can accumulate in yards, get into homes, block drains and gutters, and clog up filters. These poplar trees shed cotton during June and July.
The weeds have taken over my garden. Help
I have read that a high-concentration vinegar directly onto the soil could last longer than a month but note that many organic diluted vinegar solutions are sprayed on the plant leaves. Small amounts/drops that fall while spraying may last just a few days. There are sometimes plants/weeds that may require additional counter measures to fully remove.
This is spot has some morning sun then shade it doesn’t matter what the plant they all wilt then die
It sounds like this spot is diseased with something that covers a broad range of plants. This happens when soil remains too wet, typically.
You may need fungicides, or biofungicides to clean up the area. Here are some articles that will help:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/organic/biofungicide-information.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/using-fungicides-in-garden.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/what-is-copper-fungicide.htm
A palm on my balcony recently died, I thought due to underwatering. I'm wondering if it's safe to use the same soil for the next plant I put in the pot? It's very large so don't want to waste the soil. When I pulled out the dead roots and shovelled through the soil I found some large grey curled up grubs. They weren't moving and were very deep down in the pot. Now I'm concerned the palm didn't die of neglect and these grubs may have played a part and might kill whatever plant I put in there next. I'm new to gardening and trying hard not to kill anything else but it would also be difficult for me to dispose of all that soil as I live in an apartment. Any guidance would be appreciated.
If you can let it dry out for an entire year, then it will be safe to plant by this time next year. You can, also, attempt to bake the soil on the lowest setting for 3 hours. Generally, you want to aim for a temperature of about 150, but this is not possible with most ovens. This is what I would do, but both methods work, equally, as well.
Send in a list order of the steps we need to do this cleanup and sterilization process in our garden. Thank you...
There are many ways to go about this. Here are some articles that will help:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/using-fungicides-in-garden.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/what-is-copper-fungicide.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/organic/biofungicide-information.htm
If all attempts at killing the disease fail, you can try your local extension service: