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  • Answered by
    roseman on
    October 29, 2016
    A.

    Please check out this article on pruning roses that I am providing a link to. Pruning the larger canes can be problematic as some will simply die if pruned more that 6 or 8 inches. Do not prune back below existing foliage level unless the canes die back substantially over winter. Article Link> https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/pruning-roses.htm

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  • Answered by
    roseman on
    October 29, 2016
    A.

    I am not sure if you have a product called Bayer Tree and Shrub where you are located. But it is a systemic product that will take care of this situation. If you do not have the Bayer product, look for a systemic insecticide to apply to them.

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  • Answered by
    roseman on
    November 4, 2016
    A.

    The rose is telling you that it is in shock and stress mode. I would water the rosebush with some water that has both a root growth stimulation product and a product called Super Thrive mixed into the same water. Water the rosebush with this mix the next 4 to 5 times it needs watering. I would also transplant the rose into a larger and deeper pot/container. That may make it harder to move around but the rosebush has out grown its current container badly. The breaking off of the main tap root is a serious issue and she may not recover from it. The method I have recommended is the only way I know of to deal with this major shock and stress situation. If possible shield the rosebush from the most intense rays of the sun/hottest times of the day exposure while she is recovering from this event.

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  • Answered by
    roseman on
    November 4, 2016
    A.

    I would recommend using a stirrup hoe to get rid of any weeds around the rosebushes. Remove all weed matter after doing the hoeing. Work up the soils a bit and lightly water. Put down some landscaping fabric and cover it with a decorative mulch of choice. All persistent weeds that start to come up should be easily pulled or painted with a small paintbrush that has been dipped in some premixed herbicide. Use a wetted but not dripping wet paintbrush for this application. It gets the herbicide right where it is needed without any overspray concerns.

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  • Answered by
    roseman on
    November 4, 2016
    A.

    The bottle acts like a miniature greenhouse. If you cut the bottom of the plastic bottle off to make this little greenhouse, then you will be able to take the cap off periodically to help regulate the moisture buildup inside. So leaving the bottle in place for the first 5 to 6 weeks is important to get the rooting process going. Once that is going well you will start to see dome new growth. Once new growth is seen wait at least a week or two before taking the mini greenhouse off. Even then only take it off for an hour at most the first time and put it back on. All changes in its environment should be slow and methodical. Rapid changes can spell death for the new little rose. Here is a link to an article I wrote on this topic for you: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/roses-from-cuttings.htm

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  • Answered by
    roseman on
    November 13, 2016
    A.

    Black spots are typically caused by the fungus called Black Spot. You will need to spray the rosebushes with a fungicide listed to control black spot fungus. If the black spots are significant, it may be necessary to spray them with a fungicide called Mancozeb which is available at Amazon.com as Mancozeb Flowable. If it is only a light bit of black spot spraying the roses with an earth friendly fungicide called Green Cure at the Cure Rate per the label should work to kill the fungus. Please note that once black spot attacks the foliage, the black spots on those leaves will not go away. However if the fungus has been properly killed, the new foliage will be free from the black spots.

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