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Yes, most definitely cover and protect them. You can use either large buckets or old trash containers depending on the size of the rose bush. Sometimes if they are too big, you can simply wrap a big beach or bath towel around them, then cover that with a big plastic trash bag and weigh the trash bag down with some rocks at the ground. The towel provides some nice insulation and the plastic bag protects the towel from getting wet.

Many original rosebushes in our gardens are actually grafted rosebushes. This means the top part we enjoy has been grafted to a much more hardy rootstock or different rose altogether. So if we start a new rosebush from cuttings off of the ones we have, it may be far weaker on its own roots and thus not survive the Winter tests they must go through. I am in Colorado where it is a real challenge for many roses to come back each year after winter. If the roses you want to make more of are truly Own Root roses, then doing the cuttings to start new ones should be fine. Here is a link to an article that will be of help to you: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/roses-from-cuttings.htm .

Stan the Roseman
Consulting Rosarian
Gardening Know How

That is really unfortunate that they got sprayed. If there is still any green cane areas left on them, prune them down to either where there are still some good leaves or to where the green canes still look healthy. Seal the cut ends of the canes with white Elmers Glue. Wash the roses down well with water, as well as the soil. Give each of the rose bushes 1/3 cup of Epsom salts and work that into the ground around them. If you can find a product called Super Thrive at your local Wal-Mart or garden center, then get some of that. Add two tablespoons to a gallon of water. Water all the bushes you just gave the Epsom Salts with this water treatment every three days for four watering cycles. This should bring them back. Be sure to remove ALL sprayed or wilted foliage ASAP too.

If there is no green to any of the canes of the rose bushes and they are all brown, then it is too late.

Generally, you would plant the grafted roses with the graft at least two inches below the finished grade line around the bush, and in colder regions mound at least 6 inches of soil for additional protection. If a rose bush is not doing well before it goes into the winter, it is probably not going to come back the following spring, even if you had watered it. If you are in a warmer location and nothing is going on with growth yet, it might be best to dig it up and plant a new rose bush there. Amend the soil with some bagged garden soil and compost. Put some super phosphate (1/4 cup) in the bottom of the planting hole. Just before the rose bush goes in to winter, give it another two or three tablespoons of super phosphate and work it in well around the base. This will help keep the root system strong. About mid season as part of your feeding program, give it 1/3 to 1/2 cup of Epsom Salts too, which encourages new cane growth.

If the canes you can see are still green, give it some time to get going.

Yes. There are several ways you could do this, depending on the type of rose you have. Although there are many ‘guidelines’ for rooting plants, this is not to say you always have to go by the book. I once took a rose cutting (during late summer), placed it in the ground (no rooting hormone), and put a jar over top of it to keep it protected throughout winter (watering it often). By spring, my cutting had already rooted and I now have about a 10-inch plant with new branches coming out. Keep in mind, however, this doesn’t work for everyone—point being it’s ok to experiment until you find what works for you.

Here's an article that should help you: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/roses-from-cuttings.htm

Start by purchasing a moisture meter at your local garden center. Use the moisture meter to check the soil moisture in your container at three locations around the tree rose to get a good reading, wiping the probe off prior to each testing. Then water when the soil is getting dry but do not keep it on the wet side. You might want to transplant the tree rose into a larger
container eventually, but the one you bought it in should be okay for about half the season. Check out this article for some additional information: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/learn-more-about-tree-roses.htm

One other thing, be sure the container your tree rose is in has a drainage hole or holes. If it does not, then transplant it into a pot that does as soon as possible. No drainage hole or holes spells root rot problems.