For 3 seasons any peppers, tomatoes, and other vegetables are destroyed by molds and blights even when planted in entirely different sections of the garden. I am at the point of giving up on growing peppers, because Why Bother?? No pics, but the symptoms are always beginning with a soft dark spot, sometimes encircled with a ring, sometimes not. However, it eventually destroys the entire fruit. I do NOT want to saturate my garden withagricultural chemicals. I fertilize with my own good compost and mulch heavily each year either with good straw or preferably pine straw going about 3-4 inches. Thanks,
It is very important to practice crop rotation to keep plants healthy; especially plants in the Nightshade family.
These articles will help you.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/tomato-diseases.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/pepper/pepper-problems.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/vgen/rotating-vegetables.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/projects/how-to-solarize-garden-beds-to-eliminate-garden-pests-in-the-soil.htm
My pepper plant was eaten by a deer. It was about a foot tall maybe a little bigger. The deer ate the top off of the plant and all of the leaves on the bottom, its only a few inches tall now. The leaves have grown back but the top of the stem is brown where the deer bit it. Will it grow back if i just continue watering it? Should I cut off the brown part?
If you are seeing new growth, then it will, absolutely, recover. Peppers are very resilient, and will take quite a bit of damage. You can cut off the brown part, or leave it, as it will clean itself eventually. I would recommend caging it, though. This will prevent another attack from deer.
Is there a pepper that boosts or intensifies the burn/heat of others? on 7-22-19 a friend dropped off some peppers Jalapeno and some small variety (UNKNOWN) by by themselves neither pepper was off charts when mixed the heat/burn/sting was very close to the Habanero Characteristics.
I can't find any research on the subject, and am unaware of anything like this ever occurring.
I can offer some solutions as to what may have happened, though.
When trying both peppers, in order to get a good indication of its heat, you should taste a seed of each. This will give you a good indication of the heat of the peppers. The tip, alone if bitten, may not be hot at all. This means that the heat won't be noticed until you eat more of the pepper.
Another guess is that maybe the heat differs between peppers. Even with the same variety, there can be quite a difference in how much heat each individual pepper will produce.
What am I doing wrong? The green pepper plant is in a container on a south facing deck.
This article will help you.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/pepper/black-stems-on-pepper-plants.htm
I live in western NY state. An old nurseryman once told me what variety of sweet red pepper to grow for our short summer season in our area. Can you help me with this?
These publications should help. You also can call your local county extension agent for popular varieties.
http://vegvariety.cce.cornell.edu/main/showVarieties.php?searchCriteria=pepper&searchIn=1&crop_id=0&sortBy=overallrating&order=DESC
http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scene9c8a.html#varieties
Not exactly a question, but I had asked for some help with my ghost pepper and Carolina Reaper plants in a previous question. After reading a considerable amount of information, I purchased a product called CalMag with iron. A 2.5 lb bag is mixed with distilled water that makes a concentrate. App 2 teaspoons in a gallon of water is the proper application. I have Used it once a week for the last month and the plants look great. Production has also increased. The Carolina Reaper is still slow in producing, but more fruit is appearing. I also Moved them out of direct sunlight. They receive the afternoon sun for app 4-5 hours. It has been mid 90’s with some days 100 degrees. The ghost peppers have produced the most. Also one of the plants I purchased as a ghost turned out to be a Naga Viper. All are extremely hot, but very good flavor. Use with caution. I thought this might help someone. The leaves have stopped turning yellow and dropping off. Plants look healthy.
WONDERFUL!!!!! Thank you for your feedback. I remember handling this issue! CalMag is a wonderfully quick acting product, and is considerably more expensive than Dolomitic lime. This is why I always recommend the lime, however, this is a faster way to cure your plants, although more expensive.
I'm glad that they are going well, now!
My black pepper plant has been attacked by YELLOW MOTTLE VIRUS disease or MOSAIC VIRUS DISEASE. How can I control that virus? Thank you.
There is no known cure for active infections of yellow mottle virus or mosaic virus. The best you can do is to prevent the disease from spreading and infecting healthy plants and new plantings. Control the insect pest vectors with preventive spraying of repellent insecticide like neem oil and build soil fertility. Nutrient density helps plants resist pests and diseases.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/pepper/pepper-mosaic-virus.htm