I have a couple of problems with a beloved Magnolia tree. It appears to be two different types of disease. One giving the leaves a lacey appearance which spreads to the whole leaf; the other rust coloured spots. The tree is well watered and drained, shaded from wind and flowered well this summer. Any advice gratefully received.
Most likely fungal leaf spots which don't require any intervention. Just pick up the fallen leaves and discard them in the trash so as not to spread the fungus.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/magnolia/magnolia-tree-diseases.htm
I have transplanted my Magnolia Soulangiana and it's suffering after successfully flowering- leaves are very stunted and 10% have died. Should I persevere or act now and do something? I have tried feeding the tree and I can only imagine it's as I have heard, that they don't transplant well? I wouldn't mind as much if I knew it will struggle then bounce back. What do you think?
YOu don't say how old the tree is or how you went about transplanting it, so it's hard to say. The deed is done, though, so now about all you can do is keep it well watered, but make sure it drains well, no standing water, and keep your fingers crossed.
Here are a couple of articles about moving trees and pruning magnolias.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/moving-mature-trees.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/magnolia/pruning-magnolia-trees.htm
I have 3 Magnolia trees in pots & all are showing signs of this 'burn'. I never water the leaves, only the roots. This week I sprinkled & watered in some ericaceous feed. Would anyone know what the issue is, & what should I do, if anything ?
A few things appear to be causing the issue. First, it is important to measure and follow instructions on feed packaging to avoid over, or underfeeding. Because this is an acid mix, overfeeding will lead to a severely low pH. this can cause nutrient lock out, or many symptoms of what you are seeing here.
Another thing that can cause these symptoms is overwatering. This is the most common issue. They do not tolerate being wet constantly without a period to dry out thoroughly down to about 3 or 4 inches.
This article will help you to care for these trees, but be advised that most will species of magnolia will NOT do well in container for extended periods: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/magnolia/magnolia-tree-care.htm
Should not be budding now, mid-September, anyway. North facing in pot in front of house, protected from wind by hedge. Some Leaves mottled with black and some slightly mildewed or something white and floury. Keep getting new buds on this year old plant which grow large and pink but never flower. Go pale grey-brown on outside and fall apart. I think I got one flower last year, its first, which was fine. Can’t remember which month that was.
It sounds like fungal issues at work. Powdery mildew is the white floury stuff and it is caused by too much shade. The spots are from a different fungal infection. Clean up any leaf debris in the fall so as not to spread the fungal spores to next year. Botrytis blight, another fungal infection. could also be present. Read the information below to determine if that is what is causing the bud drop.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/disease/treating-botrytis-blight.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/magnolia/magnolia-tree-diseases.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/magnolia/magnolia-tree-care.htm
I am fairly certain that the magnolia tree we planted a few months ago has a fungal infection of some sort. I'm terrified that it is verticillium wilt. It has not rained here in ages and has been abnormally hot. I checked the stem vascular tissue and no brown streaks. But the leaves and bark worry me. I've sprayed with tebuconazole but it doesn't seem to be helping. Any help would be appreciated.
It appears to be fungal/bacterial, but this is not Verticillium.
It sounds like the tree was planted a little too late in the year. It is best to plant these in early Spring, since they are quite cold tolerant, but won't take well to the soil in the heat. Pair this with lots of water in attempt to compensate for hot weather and you have the perfect recipe for infection.
It sounds like you are already treating the best that you can for the upper portions of the tree. Cooler weather will take care of the rest. You can help it out by removing any heavily infected growth or anything that is completely dead, but don't butcher it up too badly at this point.
I would also suggest WETTABLE SULFUR and DOLOMITIC LIME together in the soil. Do this once per year around the tree where its roots extend to. This will help keep infections at bay, and treat existing ones.
This article will help you with the care of Magnolias: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/magnolia/magnolia-tree-care.htm
A magnolia black tulip TESSELAAR tree
Yes, they are just barely hardy in your area, as you are at the edge of their survival zone. With some protection from summer heat, you should see normal growth.
This article will help you to care for Magnolia Trees: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/magnolia/magnolia-tree-care.htm
Hi, I planted magnolia felix in Feb this year (2018). It had leaves which fall off in fall and now it is end of spring and there are no flowers or leaves yet. Please advise. Thanks.
I t could be so many different things. Water shortage. Toxin in soil. Planting techniques.
Fungus. Inadequate root protection during transit.
How was it transported?
Steve
http://treestylearb.org.uk/