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Since your tree is still considered fairly young and may have been started by seed, it could actually take up to 10 years or more for it to begin blooming. In addition, nitrogen-rich soils encourage trees to produce more vegetative growth and fewer flowers. Therefore, additional phosphorus and micro-nutrients may help stimulate root growth and flowering. To feed the roots, make holes around the drip line of the tree, 6 inches apart and 8 to 12 inches deep, and add super phosphate (0-20-0) and your recommended micro-nutrients according to the directions on the bags.

To propagate a magnolia, here is an article that you may find helpful: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/how-to-root-cuttings-from-various-shrubs-bushes-and-trees.htm

The best thing you can do for it is to wrap it in paper (they sell it at nurseries for trees) and leave it to heal. Do not seal the wounds with anything as this can trap disease in the wound. The paper will keep disease from getting in and will allow the wound to breathe so it can heal.

Black or brown tips usually indicate a watering issue. This means that either the plant is not getting the water it needs from its environment or something is restricting the water it can take up through its roots. Try increasing watering in the spring (as the tree will be going dormant now and will not need or want extra water). Also, check the roots to make sure that there is no disease or pests attacking them. A treatment with phosphorous (bone meal) may also help the tree develop its roots better and improve how much water it can take up.

Magnolia planting is best done in spring or fall in a moist, rich, slightly acidic soil that is amended with compost or leaf mold. Since it has been in a pot for some time, you may need to root prune it prior to planting. Here is more information: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/houseplants/hpgen/prune-roots.htm

If newly planted, it is probably a bit of transplant shock. I would give it some fertilizer, continue watering every day and this article will help as well: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/environmental/learn-how-to-avoid-and-repair-transplant-shock-in-plants.htm

On established trees, it could be a fungus. I would treat the tree with a fungicide every 2-3 weeks for a few months. I personally like neem oil as a fungicide, as it is systemic and you do not need to be able to reach all parts of the tree in order for it to be effective.

Unfortunatly, there is not much to be done for that other than cutting off the cold damaged buds/blooms and foliage. This should not kill the tree but the flowering for this season is likely not going to happen.