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Top Questions About Endless Summer Hydrangea

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Questions About Endless Summer Hydrangea

  • Answered by
    Downtoearthdigs on
    July 1, 2016
    A.

    Make sure the soil is draining of excess moisture.
    Provide shade during the hottest part of the day.
    Hydrangea will easily when they are stressed from heat and bright sunlight.
    Your plants have not had time to develop a good root system yet.
    Provide even moisture and make sure the entire root system is receiving moisture but that the roots never sit in soggy soil.

    Avoid fertilizing until the plants recover and are actively growing.

    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/hydrangea-container-care.htm

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  • Answered by
    Alisma on
    September 20, 2016
    Certified Expert
    A.

    Yes, you should "deadhead" the hydrangea, which means cutting off the faded flower heads, in the early to mid fall. Cut them just under where the dead flowers are so that you don't damage the rest of the branch.

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  • Answered by
    Downtoearthdigs on
    May 27, 2017
    A.

    It can be quite common to find on older Hydrangea fibrous roots on the edges of the plants.
    You can try division of the roots, though it may not be a successful as propagating from cuttings.

    Here are some links with more information.

    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/growing-hydrangeas-hydrangea-care-guide.htm

    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/green-hydrangea-blooms.htm

    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/hydrangea/hydrangea-propagation.htm

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  • Answered by
    MichiganDot on
    December 29, 2017
    A.

    I suggest you mulch the ground (snow is a good mulch) and consider wrapping the plant in burlap. Endless Summer is unusual in that it blooms on both new and old wood. Details here: http://www.endlesssummerblooms.com/design-and-grow/planting-and-care

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  • Answered by
    Christina Byers on
    May 18, 2018
    A.

    They will thrive as long as they are in shade, dappled shade or morning sun only. Otherwise they will burn quickly

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  • Answered by
    Downtoearthdigs on
    May 18, 2018
    A.

    In a southern climate plant where your Hydrangea will receive 2-3 hours of morning sunshine with dappled sun or semi shade in the afternoon.

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  • Answered by
    GKH_Susan on
    October 22, 2019
    Certified Expert
    A.

    Endless Summer shrubs bloom on old and new wood. To protect the buds during winter that formed the previous summer, mulch up to 12 inches in the fall. Do not remove the mulch in spring till all threats of frost have passed. Pruning is really not necessary except to remove spent blooms and dead wood. If you want to replace them, the panicle hydrangeas bloom only on new wood so you don't have to worry about losing buds to late frosts.

    http://www.endlesssummerblooms.com/design-and-grow/planting-and-care

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  • Answered by
    luis_pr on
    October 10, 2021
    A.

    By the end of October or the start of November, Royal Oak tends to have overnight temperatures in the 40s and that, along with decreased temperatures, will reduce the chances that some of these flower buds may open or open fully into flowers.

    The problem with ES is that it does not begin to open the buds early. To bloom from new wood, ES has to let the stems get tall (3-5' high but, the height varies based on many factors) and old enough to produce/open flower buds. Cultivars from the Let's Dace Series are more compact (2-3') and so they do not require waiting until the stems are as tall as ES's; those varieties may make better choices in locations like yours.

    However, an even better choice would be to use Smooth or Pee Gee Hydrangeas. These will bloom earlier and not have this blooming issue. Of course, these types of hydrangeas do not produce the same types of blooms or the same colors as ES mopheads/lacecaps.

    Going forward with keeping ES, I would consider fertilizing it with a fertilizer brand that is slightly higher in nitrogen and more phosphorus to see if this may trigger a faster/earlier stem development/growth that gets tall sooner. Or have an application of the current fertilizer in mid to late spring and another two months later but before the last week of July (that week is your average date of first frost minus three months). Then see if that helps your ES in any way. I wish I could still contact this acquaintance; I was now wondering what fertilizer program he was exactly using (what fert, how much and when he applied it in Ohio). His macrophyllas would normally bloom late summer to early fall (or about now). Try not to go overboard with higher nitrogen levels as too much nitrogen can stop blooming. A few percentages 1-3 may be ok; increase phosphorus a tad more. Michigan is located further north so this may not work for you but you can try if you wish.

    You can leave the blooms that are open and the ones that are in the process of opening "as is". Enjoy whatever blooms you do get. All of mine are officially brown so I only see new ones from friends in the United Kingdom where some varieties of macrophyllas are still blooming. If your plant aborts the blooms/buds due to reduced sunlight or cold temperatures, these blooms/buds will prematurely turn brown. You can always deadhead them at any point (cut the peduncle string that connects the bloom to the stem).

    If these stems typically dry out during winter and die for you, you can prune them all the way down by the end of May or thereabouts (live/green stems should leaf out by then). When the stems do not come back every year, some people cut them down in mid/late fall or in winter too but, since pruning now can force new growth that can get zapped by early frosts, I prefer to prune in the spring instead.

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