I have an established elm tree in my yard. A porcupine made a habit of visiting it last year but is has ceased it's visits this year. This year it seems as if it is being challenged with not enough water. I'm thinking about putting a hose around the crown base for moisture. Is this a wise move? It needs water I think. Any suggestions?
Don't water just near the base of the tree. Water the entire absorbing root zone, which extends at least as far as the foliage.
When you say a porcupine visited the tree, did it do some damage to the bark and underlying growing layer? If so it may have damaged the vessels that conduct water and nutrients to the foliar crown, and that could be a reason for decline.
We live in a temperate climate with max temps in summer of 40c
Your temperature highs in summer match those of my area here in the united States. This is a very important factor when choosing when to plant something, but the other question will be... How cold will it get in your area? Likely, if it does not freeze at all in your area, then your best bet will be to plant anytime that it is not above about 30c.
If you do experience colder weather as well, then just make sure to give it at least 2 months to settle in before a frost.
This article will give you more information about these trees:https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/elm/camperdown-elm-tree-information.htm
Two big branches of an elm broke. What can I do about the exposed part of the trunk to protect it from bug and severe cold weather.
Ragged, broken edges need to be pruned off. Look for the bark collar when deciding where to cut. If you lost large branches from the main trunk, elliptical-shaped cuts are made on the top and bottom. This is best left for a tree professional. Painting wounds is not recommended anymore. They cause more problems than they help. I have read that shellac is OK but don't use tar-based wound paint or house paint. Both are detrimental. Here are tips from the Arbor Day Foundation on storm-damaged trees.
https://www.arborday.org/media/stormrecovery/4_treefirstaid.cfm
https://www.arborday.org/trees/tips/keys-to-pruning.cfm
What is the best way to prune this?
No pruning is required for this tree.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/elm/japanese-elm-tree-care.htm
I live in Zone 9.(PAC-Northwest)
These don't really need an extra fertilizer. You want them to grow a little more slowly to avoid contracting Elm Disease, which is a huge problem once it gets established.
If you still choose to fertilize them, you will want to choose a fertilizer you will want something with low nitrogen, and high phosphorus and potassium. You want this to be in slow release form, too.
Really, it is best to plant them in the correct soil, light, and area to get the most from the trees, as it is tedious to fertilize them without accidentally causing the death of the tree.
This article will give you more information on the care of the tree: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/elm/camperdown-elm-tree-information.htm
I had clematis growing in my pots but I recently moved and these started to grow. I'm worried that they aren't my treasured plant.
Nope. I'm sorry, but that looks like a field Elm. Likely a start from a tree nearby. That is unfortunate.
Leaves are dropping prematurely to the fall leaf dropping season--what is my problem
Without a picture, and even then, it is hard to diagnose plant problems. If the droppings are very small and round, it may be caterpillar excrement. If it is more like sap or a constance oozing from the tree, slime flux or bacterial wetwood is possible. Contact an arborist or your local Extension Service for treatment advise. Here is an article on wetwood: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/wetwood-bleeding-trees.htm. Here is the homepage for Texas' Extension; search for wetwood or slime flux. https://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/browse/featured-solutions/gardening-landscaping/