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Top Questions About Cypress Trees

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Questions About Cypress Trees

  • Answered by
    drtreelove on
    September 14, 2018
    A.

    If you are in the San Bruno area, there are many types of cypress trees, each one of these have their own set of pests and diseases and possible reasons for decline. The most common are Monterey cypress and Italian cypress. Both are susceptible to fungal canker disease, insect pests and drought stress.

    Without photos and more information on the growing conditions, soil and water management, it's impossible to diagnosis remotely.

    I suggest that you contact the UC Cooperative Extension office in Half Moon Bay, and specifically Dr Igor Lacan, a highly competant urban forestry specialist. They may provide free inspection and recommendations. http://cesanmateo.ucanr.edu/About/Contact/Half_Moon_Bay_Office_Staff/

    Also, Bartlett Tree Service out of SF and Davey Tree in Brisbane.

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  • Answered by
    drtreelove on
    September 22, 2018
    A.

    No that is not necessary.

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  • Answered by
    drtreelove on
    September 26, 2018
    A.

    No, the cut tops will not root; don't waste time and money trying.
    And it's a long shot that the uprooted cypress trees will regrow when propped upright, but worth a shot if not too expensive. Any hope for success will depend on doing it promptly before the soil and the exposed roots dry out. If that was Florence, it's been awhile already.

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  • Answered by
    drtreelove on
    October 16, 2018
    A.

    I recommend spring and fall fertilizatin with a slow release, complete organic fertilizer like these examples:
    https://www.domyown.com/dr-earth-organic-all-purpose-fertilizer-p-9485.html
    http://www.sustane.com/products/landscape/sustane-4-6-4
    You can also mulch the soil surface with three or four inches of free brush/wood chips from a local tree service if available, to help retain soil moisture and suppress weed growth. The mulch will decompose gradually and add to soil organic matter and beneficial soil biology.

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  • Answered by
    drtreelove on
    November 17, 2018
    A.

    The best way to adjust soil pH is by soil test and amending with nutrients based on actual deficiencies found. Balancing of the major minerals and incorporating soil organic matter (compost) will automatically bring the pH into best balance.

    It is common for gardeners to shortcut the best management practices by directly addressing high pH (alkalinity) with soil sulfur, and low pH (acidic conditions) with lime. But this is a very short-sighted practice and can throw other important factors out of balance.
    In the Imperial Valley you undoubtedly have good lab and agronomist resources for soil testing and recommendations for Rx amendments.

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  • Answered by
    Downtoearthdigs on
    January 16, 2019
    A.

    There isn't a lot of care to be taken with these. Could you include a picture to help me to see what size container, and any other possible issues? It could be likely that the tree gets rootbound if it is in a smaller pot. These need quite a bit of light to survive as well, so this might be the issue too.

    Here is a link to general care of this tree: http://coastalnursery.com/european-cypress/

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  • Answered by
    BushDoctor on
    February 6, 2019
    Certified Expert
    A.

    This can happen for a few reasons. Cooler than normal temperatures will cause wind burn, which is very common. Fungal infection from overly wet conditions will also be common. Windburn will treat itself, but a fungal infection will need to be addressed. 1/4 normal dose of dolomitic lime in tandem with wettable sulfur will take care of a fungal infection, and is good to apply each year, anyways, as a preventative.

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