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Actually, these can become quite invasive in some areas. Trimming it to the desired height would definitely yield the results that you are looking for. It is best to do any major pruning during dormancy, or at least when it is not actively growing.

Numerous insects attack grapevine leaves, including leafhoppers, spider mites and skeletonizers. Severe spider mite infestations turn entire leaves bronze or yellow, while large leafhopper populations cause premature leaf drop. Manage both of these pests with insecticidal soap, taking care to thoroughly spray the undersides of leaves. Western grapeleaf skeletonizer moth larvae start feeding on foliage as soon as they hatch. The small pests continue feeding on leaf tissue until just the large veins remain. Vine defoliation typically occurs around midsummer, leaving the fruit susceptible to sunburn. Treat skeletonizer pests with a commercial spray that contains spinosad.

I would make sure to give them plenty of room. They will all be competing for the same nutrients and space, so try and give them as much space as possible.

This is likely a Eriophyid mite.

The mite damage is mostly cosmetic, and it typically won't stress the tree or plant to severely.

I recommend cleaning up any leaves or foliage under the tree and dispose of.
Then next spring spray the trees with a dormant oil spray prior to bud break to smother out the little darlings that might have survived. If it's a particularly severe infestation a second dose of a horticultural or insecticidal soap spray just as the leaves are beginning to unfurl should do the trick.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/chokecherry/chokecherries-in-the-landscape.htm

Unfortunately there is no easy way. Like poplar and other species with a prolific suckering tendency from lateral roots, its a survival mechanism.

The non-chemical, mechanical method is to cut or grub out (dig) each sucker as it appears. Eventually without leaf surface and capacity for photosynthesis the plant will die.

Another way is to hire a tree or landscape service (or do it yourself) to dig out all the lateral roots that you can find, or grind them out with a stump grinding machine.

The chemical option is to spot spray with a systemic herbicide (like RoundUp Concentrate) when a sucker appears with new foliage. Chasing and poisoning each new sucker will eventually stop new growth.

With either of these methods you may have to keep at it for a year or two before the new suckering slows down. The herbicide option will be most effective because of the systemic property. But glyphosate (the active ingredient in Roundup can translocate through root grafts to desirable trees or shrubs in the vicinity. So use with discretion.