I have a tree, think it is a choke cherry, and most of the branches on one side are thin and the other side three times as many. The tree every year is leaning more and more. I tried to trim the branches to even it up, but I would have had to remove too many to even up the tree. Can I install a guy wire and pull it back straight and would it stay without cutting more branches off the heavy side?
If it is a well established tree, this will not work. It will be too firmly rooted. If it is younger, it may work though.
What I would suggest trying is tip pruning (just taking a few inches off the tip) the weak side. This will encourage more branching of the branches that are there and will help give a more full experience.
We recently planted a black chokeberry bush in our backyard. We live in northern New Jersey where the weather has been hot and humid over the last several weeks. The plant was doing great until last week when I noticed a white powdery substance on the leaves, which I thought to be mildew. I purchased an organic product online. However, the plant seemed to be getting worse, so after looking at some websites, I mixed together hydrogen peroxide/baking soda and water (2 tbl of 3% peroxide, 2 tbl of baking soda and 4 to 6 cups of water) and sprayed the plant. The mildew is gone but now many of the leaves are turning black and appear to be dying. What should I do to save the rest of it, and should I apply the product that I purchased for the mildew when it arrives?
Cut out the dying foliage. Powdery mildew can also be treated with neem oil, which is an effective fungicide as well as pesticide. Here is more info: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/problems/get-the-cure-for-powdery-mildew.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/pests/pesticides/neem-oil-uses.htm
I have a Schubert Choke Cherry in my front yard. It was planted by the builder of our house 10 years ago. This is the first summer that the tree is sending out 'shoots' or 'suckers' all over the yard and into the neighbor's yard. My husband and I have been cutting them out, but the tree continues to produce them. Is there a cause for this? How can I stop it from doing this?
Single stem young saplings can simply be cut off at ground level and they will die. More established saplings that have already branched will need to be cut off and their cuts painted with Roundup to prevent them from regrowing. This article should help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/weed-identification-control/weed-trees.htm
Any info on where to find either seeds or the plants would be helpful.
Hopefully, you will find the information in this article helpful: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/chokecherry/chokecherries-in-the-landscape.htm
You should be able to find chokecherry seeds or plants at your local nursery on online from a reputable dealer.
I have a chokecherry tree I planted 10 years ago. It was in a shady area and never grew. I just read how the deer eat it so that answered one question. I want to move it into the sun. When may I do so? It is still somewhat cold here in NY. Thanks so much. Leslie
The following article will give you guidelines on moving established trees:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/transplanting-trees.htm
My research indicated that chokecherry trees could be successfully transplanted in
the spring and fall. Their roots are said to be fibrous and not very deep.
For more information on chokecherry trees, please visit the following link:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/chokecherry/chokecherries-in-the-landscape.htm
Generally speaking early spring is the best time to move your tree. After the ground has thawed and before the new growth starts. You could also move the tree in the fall.
I have listed a few links with more information.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/transplanting-trees.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/chokecherry/chokecherries-in-the-landscape.htm
The tree was planted three years ago. It's a Canada Red Chokecherry. I've fed it several times with tree spikes and did some deep watering. But it looks very spindly. What does the tree need to fill out more? In general, the soil is clay. A garden center told me that maybe it was planted too high. The hole might not have been big enough. Do I replant it?
I would certainly start with a soil test and find out the ph of your soil.
Access the watering, even though you say you have been watering. Try increasing watering.
Generally the tree should be placed in the ground at the same level as it was in the pot.
Digging an adequate sized planting hole is a step that many persons do skimp on, digging the hole twice the size of the pot diameter is a good guideline.
This allows you to add some amendment to the soil area also.
Certainly replanting is an option along with lifting the tree and amending the soil. Fall or spring is the best time to do this.
Remember to water daily the first 2 weeks if you choose this option, then cut back from there.
Here is a link to refresh you on the care requirements.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/chokecherry/chokecherries-in-the-landscape.htm
Do not try to fertilize the tree into health by over fertilizing. A slow release fertilizer in the spring should be sufficient.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/chokecherry/chokecherries-in-the-landscape.htm
Is there any way to prevent chokecherry trees from growing suckers? If not, is there something I can do to kill off these suckers other than cutting them down? Thank you, Bob
There really is no sure-fire way to get a tree to stop suckering outside of killing it. However, you can try to discourage suckering simply by making sure your tree is in optimal health. You can read more about this in the section "tree sucker control" in the following article: