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You can certainly prune them back now but being leggy may be a trait they will carry if they have gone to their wild side. Some folks make a notch in the long canes, put some rooting harmone like Olivia's Cloning Gel on it and then bend the cane down and bury it. Once it takes root you have another bush. Pruning the rosebush outright I would leave at least 20 inches of cane and try to be sure there are some leaf bud eyes on the remaining canes to help it leaf out and get going.

Typically rosebushes need at least 6 hours of good sunshine to perform well. Along with being well fed and watered.

Black spot is a tough customer and is not easily stopped. The one thing I have found that will knock it down and out is called Mancozeb. This product will leave a yellowish powdery residue upon the foliage and canes of the roses but that is just part of how it works. You will likely need to repeat the spraying about 7 to 10 days apart for at least three sprayings. Keep in mind that once black spot makes its mark on the foliage it does not go away, however if the fungus has been killed the new foliage should be clean and free from the black spot. Here is a link to the mancozeb product: https://www.amazon.com/Bonide-Chemical-Mancozeb-Flowable-Fungicide/dp/B000BWZ9JO
It is also available at rosemania.com.

To help protect the roses that are not infected, I recommend using a product called Bayer Tree and Shrub Granules. Apply per the label directions for ornamentals/roses.Or you can purchase a good mitacide and spray the rosebushes with that per the label instructions as the disease/virus is now believed to be spread by mites. Infected rosebushes cannot be saved by pruning out the bad looking parts. Rose rosette is a virus and thus exists throughout the rosebushes infected. Here is a link to a site that has great in-depth information on rose rosette virus: http://americanhort.theknowledgecenter.com/OnDemand/index.cfm?view=category&colid=143&cid=377

I really do not know that there is truly a "Best" rose food. Bone meal or super phosphate work good to put into the planting hole when first planting rosebushes to help get the root system going good. I prefer super phosphate though. Not triple super phosphate just plain old super phosphate. I have used Vigoro Rose Food, Mile Hi Rose food (Local Colorado Product), Gro-Rich Rose and Perennial Food and Epsoma Rose food and really have not noticed much difference in performance as all the rosebushes seem to like them all and perform well. I do prefer an organic based rose food like Gro-Rich Rose and perennial food or Mile Hi Rose food and even Epsoma Rose Tone Rose Food. But the roses really love some Kelp Meal. I give each of them a cup of it early in the growing season and another cup later on in the season about end of July or first part of August. Miracle Gro is okay but will in time help build up soils salts. Thus the reason I like the organic based fertilizers as they help build the soils home for the rosebushes as well as feed them. I also give my rosebushes a drink of Moo Poo Tea (Haven Brand on-line available) a couple times per year to boost the soils nutrients.

Once roses are deadheaded, the new growth coming on for new blooms many times starts out redish in color. If the blooms are malformed, it could be that an insect is visiting them prior to opening causing the problem. It could also be the dreaded Rose Rosette Virus for which there is no cure. Rosebushes with the virus are best dug out and destroyed to prevent infecting other rosebushes. If it is an insect issue, I would recommend giving the rosebushes a treatment or two of Bayer Tree and Shrub Granules as directed on the product label. Here is a link to more information on the rose rosette virus also: http://americanhort.theknowledgecenter.com/OnDemand/index.cfm?view=category&colid=143&cid=377