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Top Questions About Maple Trees

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Questions About Maple Trees

  • Answered by
    theficuswrangler on
    June 11, 2014
    A.

    Maple are susceptible to a number of diseases, as in this article: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/maple/maple-tree-bark-disease.htm. It's important to know exactly what is causing the condition; I hope you'll take some bark and soil samples to the Extension Service for analysis. This link will help you find the closest one: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/extension-search/

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  • Answered by
    theficuswrangler on
    June 11, 2014
    A.

    You don't need pictures to know if a tree is dead, all you need is to look for green tissue. If you bend the small twigs, do they snap apart, and look all brown inside? They're dead. If you use a knife to scrape off tissue from the larger branches, or the under the bark on the trunk, and you can't find green tissue, the branch or trunk is dead.
    If it is dead, be careful about planting another maple in the same spot, because there may be lingering infection. Also, Norway maples, of which 'Deborah' is a cultivar, are considered invasive in some places. This article might be of interest to you: http://www.isaontario.com/content/norway-maples-can-we-use-them-wisely

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  • Answered by
    theficuswrangler on
    July 29, 2014
    A.

    Sorry about your tree. A photo of the tree really won't help, you need to examine the leaves for spots, and/or unhealthy conditions on the bark. If you want to save the tree, you should invest in an examination by a licensed arborist, or you can take samples of leaves to the nearest Extension Service. This link will help you locate one:
    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/what-is-extension-service.htm

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  • Answered by
    theficuswrangler on
    August 25, 2014
    A.

    Here are some articles that may help you understand what's happening to your trees: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/cracking-tree-trunks.htm
    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/repairing-tree-bark-damage.htm
    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/peeling-bark-on-trees.htm
    I would recommend that you consult with a professional arborist, or your county extension service. This link will help you locate one: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/what-is-extension-service.htm

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  • Answered by
    theficuswrangler on
    October 10, 2014
    A.

    First, are you sure that slime flux, or bacterial wetwood, is the cause of the problem you are having? There are a number of conditions that will result in oozing: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/what-is-tree-sap.htm
    If it is slime flux, most tree experts agree that there really is no treatment, except making sure the tree has sufficient water, and correct nutrition. Drilling holes is not a very popular approach, for fear of actually spreading the disease. If the area is not too large, clean cutting the wound may be useful. These articles have more info: https://extension.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/02910.html
    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/repairing-tree-bark-damage.htm
    If you don't have a professional diagnosis, this could be the time to consult a certified arborist, nursery professional, or the nearest botanical garden.

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  • Answered by
    theficuswrangler on
    October 15, 2014
    A.

    Tree sap is sort of like blood in animals. Most plants have sap of one sort or another, called phloem, that transports sugary substances (carbohydrates) from the cells that make it, to the cells that need to use it as energy for the business of living and growing. It travels through the plant in phloem vessels. In the spring, the phloem, which has spent the winter stored in the roots, starts traveling back up the tree to fuel the awakening buds. Humans tap some of that phloem, let it drip out into buckets, then cook it down and eat it in the form of maple sugar or syrup.
    Leaves are not harmful, they are simply superfluous. In order to prepare for the cold of winter, most plant, trees included, go into a state of dormancy. Some of them (evergreen trees) do it by closing stomata and changing cell structure to produce a sort of natural antifreeze. In addition, deciduous trees get rid of their leaves, so they have much less surface to protect.

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  • Answered by
    Nikki on
    October 30, 2014
    Certified Expert
    A.

    When repotting a plant, it is best to go at least 2 inches larger in diameter on the pot. But there is absolutely no harm to the plant if you decide to go bigger than that when you repot. And going larger means that it will be longer before you have to repot the tree again.

    As for the potting compost, I would do a mix of the two, as while these plants like a slightly more acidic soil, they do not need to be that much higher.

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