I planted an October Glory Maple tree approximately 3 years ago. The tree went through a dry summer the second season. Some of the bark came off of the side of the tree, exposing the inside. I have noticed that side of the tree doesn't seem to be growing as well as the other side. What do I need to do to repair the tree trunk?
Maple are susceptible to a number of diseases, as in this article: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/maple/maple-tree-bark-disease.htm. It's important to know exactly what is causing the condition; I hope you'll take some bark and soil samples to the Extension Service for analysis. This link will help you find the closest one: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/extension-search/
We have a Deborah maple that we planted a few years ago. Last year mid summer all the leaves dried and shriveled up but did not fall off. In September it looked like the tree was growing new buds. I thought it was all due to the extreme heat we had last summer. Now this spring there is no sign if life from the tree. The bark near the bottom of the tree is splitting as well any idea if this tree would be dead. I do have pictures.
You don't need pictures to know if a tree is dead, all you need is to look for green tissue. If you bend the small twigs, do they snap apart, and look all brown inside? They're dead. If you use a knife to scrape off tissue from the larger branches, or the under the bark on the trunk, and you can't find green tissue, the branch or trunk is dead.
If it is dead, be careful about planting another maple in the same spot, because there may be lingering infection. Also, Norway maples, of which 'Deborah' is a cultivar, are considered invasive in some places. This article might be of interest to you: http://www.isaontario.com/content/norway-maples-can-we-use-them-wisely
My maple tree is losing its leaves on one side of the tree, and now this is starting on the other side of the tree. What is causing it, and how can I save my tree? I can submit a photo later...I don't have one now.
Sorry about your tree. A photo of the tree really won't help, you need to examine the leaves for spots, and/or unhealthy conditions on the bark. If you want to save the tree, you should invest in an examination by a licensed arborist, or you can take samples of leaves to the nearest Extension Service. This link will help you locate one:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/what-is-extension-service.htm
Because of the severe winter weather, all our maples have bark damage and the leaves are yellowing. Please help. (Sorry, my picture is in wrong direction, it should be rotated 90 degree to right.)
Here are some articles that may help you understand what's happening to your trees: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/cracking-tree-trunks.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/repairing-tree-bark-damage.htm
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/peeling-bark-on-trees.htm
I would recommend that you consult with a professional arborist, or your county extension service. This link will help you locate one: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/what-is-extension-service.htm
We researched your site and found that there is no treatment except to drill a hole 12 to 14 inches below where the trunk is oozing. How many holes should we drill? Should we pump air through the holes to dry it out? Oxygen should kill anaerobic bacteria. We have three trees affected and they are very mature and we hear they usually do not live that long but these trees have been there for at least 30 years. Many thanks.
First, are you sure that slime flux, or bacterial wetwood, is the cause of the problem you are having? There are a number of conditions that will result in oozing: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/what-is-tree-sap.htm
If it is slime flux, most tree experts agree that there really is no treatment, except making sure the tree has sufficient water, and correct nutrition. Drilling holes is not a very popular approach, for fear of actually spreading the disease. If the area is not too large, clean cutting the wound may be useful. These articles have more info: https://extension.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/02910.html
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/repairing-tree-bark-damage.htm
If you don't have a professional diagnosis, this could be the time to consult a certified arborist, nursery professional, or the nearest botanical garden.
Where does tree sap come from in sugar maples? Why are leaves harmful to trees in winter?
Tree sap is sort of like blood in animals. Most plants have sap of one sort or another, called phloem, that transports sugary substances (carbohydrates) from the cells that make it, to the cells that need to use it as energy for the business of living and growing. It travels through the plant in phloem vessels. In the spring, the phloem, which has spent the winter stored in the roots, starts traveling back up the tree to fuel the awakening buds. Humans tap some of that phloem, let it drip out into buckets, then cook it down and eat it in the form of maple sugar or syrup.
Leaves are not harmful, they are simply superfluous. In order to prepare for the cold of winter, most plant, trees included, go into a state of dormancy. Some of them (evergreen trees) do it by closing stomata and changing cell structure to produce a sort of natural antifreeze. In addition, deciduous trees get rid of their leaves, so they have much less surface to protect.
We have several Acers that need potting and wondered what advice you could give regarding pot size, as they are in very small pots at the moment and easily blow over in the wind, and the trees have become too large for the pots. Should the compost be all ericaceous or a mix of ericaceous and John Innes No 3?
When repotting a plant, it is best to go at least 2 inches larger in diameter on the pot. But there is absolutely no harm to the plant if you decide to go bigger than that when you repot. And going larger means that it will be longer before you have to repot the tree again.
As for the potting compost, I would do a mix of the two, as while these plants like a slightly more acidic soil, they do not need to be that much higher.