20 year old Nellie Stevens holly tree has square holes eaten into bark around circumference of trunk has several identical rows - ten feet off ground and 15 feet off ground with sap leaking from these areas.
I suspect that you are looking at either carpenter bee damage or borer damage. A common borer that attacks holly is the Redheaded Ash Borer. These articles will help you determine which it might be: http://www.ento.okstate.edu/ddd/insects/redheadedashborer.htm
Can I use holly bush cuttings w/the berries for decoration and how long do they last?
Yes, you can use them for decorating and this is actually quite popular. For help with using greenery indoors, here is more information: http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/pdf/hgic1753.pdf
Half of my holly tree has leaves, half of it doesn't! Also, there are no berries. Last Christmas the tree was fine and had berries! I did cut some limbs off to use for decoration. However, not but about 3 or 4. Maybe it needs to be fertilized?
It sounds like your holly has some kind of disease, or possibly an insect infestation. This article will give you an idea of what to look for: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/holly/diseases-of-holly-bushes-pests-and-diseases-damaging-holly-bushes.htm.
Cut off the damaged parts, and try to get an analysis of the leaves and branches. You can get this from the county extension service, if you're in the US. This link will help you find the nearest office:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/what-is-extension-service.htm
In the Uk, you can seek out the Master Gardeners http://mastergardeners.org.uk/get-involved/find-your-nearest-master-gardener/
or call any nearby botanical garden for assistance.
I have a holly plant which is currently in a planting pot at the moment. It's about a foot and half tall. I was wondering when is a good time to plant such a plant and how long it should be left in the container before I can plant it?
As long as it is not too cold where you are located, you can go ahead and put it in the ground now. However, for most regions it's a bit too cool for planting so I would hold off until spring. As long as the plant is not too large for the container it's currently in and if you keep it located in a sheltered location, the shrub should be fine as is for spring planting.
Though hollies are quite hardy, should you expect unusually cold weather conditions, you may want to give it some added protection (since container plants tend to be more susceptible to cold) by insulating the pot with bubble wrap (or something similar). Also, make sure that it does not dry out completely. It should receive adequate moisture through winter precip, but if it hasn't rained (or snowed) in awhile, give it some water at least once or twice monthly. For more info on caring for hollies once planted, this article will help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/holly/growing-holly-bushes.htm
Every year my two Japanese holly trees get berries but they never get red. Can you tell me why this is so? Thank you.
There is a pest called a holly berry midge. It gets into the berries of hollies and they will not turn color when they are infested with them. I suspect that this may be your problem. This article will help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/holly/holly-berry-midge-pests.htm
Why did my holly trees produce very few berries this year?
This article should help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/holly/holly-bush-no-berries.htm
Your instructions for getting cuttings from the holly mention 2 cuttings. First, make a cutting just below a union bud, then another cut 3/4 inches above the bud. This puzzles me. I assume the first cut was to remove the cutting from the bush. Does the second cut mean to remove a 3/4 inch piece from the end of the cutting or does it mean a partial cut, rather than a cut completely through the stem - which would remove a section of the stem, just to injure the stem to encourage the rooting?
It means to make a partial cut into the holly piece, 4-6" above the first cut, partly to mark the butt, or bottom end of the cuttings, and partly to injure it to facilitate the formation of roots. The method described in that article, involving completely burying the cutting in the soil, is but one method of starting cuttings. For another discussion of a number of other approaches, check out this article: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/hil-8702.html